View The Full Version : Poll: Your best engine oil + any additives
dvdtuning
30-08-2012, 12:01
Hello all, I wanted to offer this survey to see which engine oil you have found the best and what do you think ? the best? It's always good to accompany it with an additive to teflon, for example?
I use bardahl xtc 60 5w40 on my 147 jtd ex 115 and I am a lot better than the selenia that I used before but don't use additives.
there is no best oil there are so many varieties? of specific, but it always depends on the usage and the type of engine, additives? but gi? are contained in the oil you just need to know read, for example, I recently did a course on chemical one x Wynn's and another recently x the Liqui Moly that among the other bottles in the Germany of the products of the castrol if you want information go to the website of the liqui moly you can acquire knowledge.
I have experience with some brands.
The worst that I found ? the Castrol, it was definitely a product too overestimated, I am referring to the GTX 10w40 magnatec's
Great was experience with Mobil 1 Rally Formula 5w50, a p? less Protection Formula 0w40 and the ESP formula 5w30, but I reserve the right to confirm why? li was also the fault of the engine type...
Excellent experience on all fronts with Bardahl XTC C60 in all the shades, that tralaltro ? also gi? doped with fullerene, that is, with the ZX-1.
Just beware of one thing, if you are a purist and mania: the 10w40 not ? fully synthetic, but synthetic.
Always check with the other manufacturers, why? some time ago I became interested in this thing, and found out that Bardahl is that alcohol-based synthetic just because? very difficult to do a oil fully synthetic that meets those shades... :)
I speak very well of the shell ultra helix and, of course, Motul, but I never tried.
Time f? I did some tests with the frizionometro (or as it's called) and intrigued, I tried the test of the oils in the network made with this tool. Let's say that my impressions have been confirmed from the tests that I have seen, the worst, the one that grippava before, that was the castrol. the Bardahl was going on under strong pressure and admixed practically did not stop never
in fact, as I said, the oils are all treated, it is necessary to know well the characteristics no matter the brand, the bardahl of which you speak ? was the first ever to use an additive anti-friction that ? a separator made of metals, a molecule used in the engines in avviazione I can testify in the 90's and was made a test in mugello with a bike 10 laps with this oil after you ? downloaded everything and without oil cha made the same trip the cio? 51 km.
dvdtuning
30-08-2012, 15:00
there is no best oil there are so many varieties? of specific, but it always depends on the usage and the type of engine, additives? but gi? are contained in the oil you just need to know read, for example, I recently did a course on chemical one x Wynn's and another recently x the Liqui Moly that among the other bottles in the Germany of the products of the castrol if you want information go to the website of the liqui moly you can acquire knowledge.
Said additives why? bardahl also produces an anti-friction additive that can? added to the oil, and that would give even more? benefits to the stress of the mechanical parts.
I have experience on bardhal xtr 10w60 ? good but if put under thermal stress in the long diventas water, the castrol edge sport 0w40 ? bad maybe the worst I have ever experienced, just fine for use the car with gait from his grandfather, selenia 5w30 ? an oil from lawn mower maybe, I tried the oil on the bmw 0w40 longlife and do not ? too bad, but after 15000 km ? cooked, by a long way use royal purple 0w40 and 5w40 with the rx-10 as an additive to the base length, and although I was very skeptical I have to say that the difference in ****head of performance and reduction of friction ? remarkably, the engine braking is much reduced and you can pull the neck to the motor for miles and miles without ever a failure, moreover to warm the silent operation? of operation ? amazing, only drawback is the cost but because of the low annual mileage not ? a great expense, now st? testing the pakelo 5w40 with specification c3 on the punto evo mltj my father always additive to the base length and I have to say that compared to the selenia c'? an abyss, the silent operation? and the smoothness of the gear are improved exponentially
sa80libero
30-08-2012, 19:03
use mobil1 0/40 and I am fine
I used for a bit of time when I had the diesel car the motul V300 Power 5/40 while the bardal xtr when they are passed to the gasoline and I was fine
definitely lasts just as it says garret at most, make 5 thousand km but this is known to most oil and strictly for competition use fewer miles you daltronte when you do a race just after that, the first thing that you change the oil
Royal purple ? very good, but never tried.
I have spoken very well of the roloil but can't find it...
mavaila1972
31-08-2012, 13:29
use mobil1 0/40 and I am fine
great oil I am from god
I used for a bit of time when I had the diesel car the motul V300 Power 5/40 while the bardal xtr when they are passed to the gasoline and I was fine
definitely lasts just as it says garret at most, make 5 thousand km but this is known to most oil and strictly for competition use fewer miles you daltronte when you do a race just after that, the first thing that you change the oil
according to me, no ? a racing oil, tried it on the sierra cosworth prepared my friend after 3 laps of the track to the maximum ? went to pappa pressure ? dropped all of a sudden, for on-road use instead ? very good
I am a p? contrary to these gradations 0wXX and 5wXX.
Their ability? security in icy cold temperatures are useful in climates deisamente pi? rigid than those of our peninsula, and their being very little "dense" tends to produce wear and tear of internal organs early with respect to a gradation which a 10wXX or a 15wXX to the maximum, that the tables at hand to be good, however, for cold temperatures but not below zero.
In Rome, I avoid it. On turbo vehicles driven usually I put at least a Xw50 that the 40 at high temperatures, which generates a turbo becomes water. To those who asked me, cars like the punto gt, uno turbo and also coup? XTC C60 15w50.
It's suitable engines even more? pushed as the 2.0 16v turbo delta or coupe, but if there are no problems spending a w60 ? even better.
from us in the north this winter, we arrived at -15 I think that one 0w40 is the minimum, especially for a diesel
In situations of this type, I would say its you. Certainly in the summer if it is very hot I wouldn't change a thing. :)
in fact, it would be better to change it to change every season, however the oils that have less difference between the 2 digits are in pi? wear-resistant
I would say except for the 0w30 :p
according to me, no ? a racing oil, tried it on the sierra cosworth prepared my friend after 3 laps of the track to the maximum ? went to pappa pressure ? dropped all of a sudden, for on-road use instead ? very good
Well not agree with you in the car by myself summoned to the gasoline
it was just a sierra cosworth with 500cv and the oil used in
it was the bardal xtr with a gradation that now I can't remember
I had a pressure gauge connected directly to the input
of the oil turbine "RS500 changed" and I have never had
lubrication problems I remember that in the can of oil
there was written the maximum use of this oil and 5000 km
I would add that the bardal xtr was the only oil that I kept the pressure of the oil
2.5 bar at idle rpm after the engine had been used to full strength
for quite some time
the bardahl xtr c'? only in gradation 10w60, I was present at the trial and after 3 laps at full capacity, he quit, now it's not? how many miles had it done earlier, but a failure like I had never noticed, maybe it was a batch of oil is faulty but for 24euro per kg it seems strange to me, after having it replaced with royal purple xpr 10w40 there are more? been problems, he has shot for 2 hours without ever a failure
dvdtuning
01-09-2012, 13:25
No c'? also the gradation 20w60 of the xtr.
Every one of us who does this work evaluates it according to the
own experience of work, the grade and type of oil
to use so we can stay till tomorrow morning to tell us
that you are right and I am not, or vice versa
There are too many variants that affect to understand if a type
oil is better than another, especially if a car has to be prepared and
you're right, the horses, the actual of the sierra of my friend he did not know them with precision, recall that mounts a garrett t28r, intercooler, pistons, printed, connecting rods, modified, valves, titanium, clutch and gearbox changed and fuel injection on methanol, prover? to hear him, to get him to tell me everything accurately, I went with him, and I just shat under hehehe I'm not used a guide similar, another particular that I remember ? the rev-limiter that scatava to 8500 for the rest I don't remember the list ? long
guidotacco
02-09-2012, 10:55
the oil has to be put on and changed according to the type and use of the engine,by tolerances and temperature, etc...
dvdtuning
03-09-2012, 15:46
Here in my part it goes from the tips of -4? in the winter to + 40? in the summer. Which could be a good compromise for a jtd 115 remapped?
Here in my part it goes from the tips of -4? in the winter to + 40? in the summer. Which could be a good compromise for a jtd 115 remapped?
if you want an oil that covers you for the whole year, I would put a 5w50 :)
I agree with zioweb, the pakelo 5w50 ? very good
You with 5w50 definitely goes well...
Of course, not of the carrefour
:)
cawadany
06-09-2012, 10:39
I am in the TFSI I have always used Mobil 1 0w40 and the last service I decided to switch to 5w40, and I put the Meguin Super Leichtlauf. Anyone knows?
? a synthetic...
I've never tried it personally...
even why? being in collaboration with a dear friend of mine has a workshop, has good oil with all of the existing specifications
for tagliandare Mercedes, BWW, VW, that if I'm not mistaken all the oils in circulation, or at least the magiorparte found at the base of castrol oil..
the difference is made by the additives...
cawadany
06-09-2012, 13:49
It is one of the few 5w40 100% full synt, as far as I know...
bernardo943
14-09-2012, 17:15
I use selenia 2000 synthetic 5/40 ; what do you think ??
tecnoracing
14-09-2012, 18:57
I for 20 years, I use castrol and I am fine I also motul I also have an attraction for the bardhal but it costs a bang
guidotacco
14-09-2012, 20:36
? a normal oil!
I use selenia 2000 synthetic 5/40 ; what do you think ??
dvdtuning
14-09-2012, 20:51
I for 20 years, I use castrol and I am fine I also motul I also have an attraction for the bardhal but it costs a bang
What do you mean, a bang? It seems to me that here by me is around 12,80 €/litre.
depends on the type and gradation, there are various prices from 10 to 24 euro per liter
tecnoracing
14-09-2012, 21:32
with the same features it always costs more?
lumaracing
05-10-2012, 15:23
Royal purple ? very good, but never tried.
I have spoken very well of the roloil but can't find it...
hello zioweb,I use roloil the 10w40 synthetic, and I am good,then I also use repsol 5w30 and 5w40,Q8 5w30,if you want to step number of a representative of the roloil and a great amico.fammi know
Sint 2000 Synthetic, also great for scooter one
Chris156
22-10-2012, 19:15
according to me the best solution ? buy oil prescribed by the house mother and additivarlo with the products syntoflon.. the diesel becomes a petrol as it runs ****** and quiet..plus the treatment do it every 50,000 or 80,000 km. if you go on their website there are various explanations on the procedure of cleaning treatment and then protection. (E. T. and the PROTECTOR)
The great error ? put the products to the ceramic..damage the engine irreversibly.
alfetta80
22-10-2012, 19:43
each machine in its specifications that must be observed,for example, the vag group injectors, pump mounts to the 5w40 50501 without dpf with dpf mounts the 5w30 etc etc then that is castrol or not but it always takes a 5w40 50501
dvdtuning
22-10-2012, 20:13
I heard that even the shell'elix 5w40 ? a very good oil, even the best of the bardahl.
blackwolf76
22-10-2012, 23:45
As I see it, because of the oils I've tried quite a bit in several types of car, I can tell you that good or bad are all good, you just have to choose the type of oil that is suitable to the characteristics of the engine and the brand name at least known, in addition certainly at the origin, in fact, there are many counterfeit products, selenia on all of them, with which a client of mine just yesterday has melted on the tour to a 156. Rather, we must choose according to the type of use that makes the customer, in addition to the conditions of the engine in which the mounted.
For example, if you put oil 5/40 or 5/30 in Vw engines injector pump before the series, type the 130hp, you'll notice an exaggerated consumption, and I assure you that it's much better a 10w40 or even 15w40. In fiat to benza small capacity, very latest versions, the best that it entails ? the 15w40 in terms of consumption and all the rest, especially if the car is used for short distances.
Also the fixed of the low gradation can? be sfatata by simply consulting the******** and the characteristics recommended by the manufacturers. Mercedes, for example, in areas where you do not go below 15? in a diesel engine requires 15w40, and not ? l0unico.
I have always used the red line when I had the rx8, excellent oil....I used the 10w40 given that in sicily we don't have problems of low temperatures :) now on the abarth 500 I'm using royal purple........
I can tell you one of my espeienza direct... a friend of mine on the golf 3 series, with the turbine plus, it has always used oil barbhal xtc with fullerene.... ebb? I can say that we have pulled down the turbine after about 200,000 miles for an upgrade to ebb? we can say that this oil really does miracles.... the turbine xfetta as if it had been mounted next yesterday!!!
I can tell you one of my espeienza direct... a friend of mine on the golf 3 series, with the turbine plus, it has always used oil barbhal xtc with fullerene.... ebb? I can say that we have pulled down the turbine after about 200,000 miles for an upgrade to ebb? we can say that this oil really does miracles.... the turbine xfetta as if it had been mounted next yesterday!!!
gi?....? well-known that the line bardhal ? excellent, I, always on the rx8 I used it to mix the gasoline.....100ml for each full directly into the tank.
Chris156
23-10-2012, 16:31
the problem of the bardal ? that if you put in additives to the teflon will form lumps...because as already said ? already added.. I confirm that ? the top.
however, the problem ? that or put it to the new motor, or before you have to make a treatment for removing incrustations or lacquers..
according to me the best solution ? buy oil prescribed by the house mother and additivarlo with the products syntoflon.. the diesel becomes a petrol as it runs ****** and quiet..plus the treatment do it every 50,000 or 80,000 km. if you go on their website there are various explanations on the procedure of cleaning treatment and then protection. (E. T. and the PROTECTOR)
The great error ? put the products to the ceramic..damage the engine irreversibly.
a friend with syntoflon has melted on the engine of his m3 on the track, when he had opened the oil that seemed to jam, unfortunately, due to the high temperature additive to big problems, much better than the length
Chris156
23-10-2012, 20:15
I had heard of this problem on the temperature..but I don't remember how many degrees we spoke, but were really a lot.. let's say that for use on the road ? a very good compromise. if you then go to the track, and you have heavy modifications ? better to use oils in particular.
I had heard of this problem on the temperature..but I don't remember how many degrees we spoke, but were really a lot.. let's say that for use on the road ? a very good compromise. if you then go to the track, and you have heavy modifications ? better to use oils in particular.
exact? I prefer not to risk :) the rx-10 ? top as an additive and does not change at high temperatures
Chris156
23-10-2012, 20:58
I at the next change I put the motul x-cess .. I've heard about that too well..and the prices are contained.
I andr? new red line......one word: fantastic.!!
Team electronics
24-10-2012, 14:13
Agip 7004 505.01
I use mobil 0-40 on 1.3 mtj and you can taste the difference compared to other brands a try.
Team electronics
09-11-2012, 08:52
also some of my friends Have tried the Mobil and' you shall say,' you are too bad!!!
Chris156
09-11-2012, 10:12
also some of my friends Have tried the Mobil and' you shall say,' you are too bad!!!
:rolleyes: :D
I also use Bardhal XTC C60 and I found it much better than the Castrol magnatec's and Castrol GTX 10W-40, I noticed that it also consumes less oil...............
megamind
10-11-2012, 09:31
also some of my friends Have tried the Mobil and' you shall say,' you are too bad!!!
which gradation?
giulianoA3
12-11-2012, 22:08
hello, I am for the castrol, for the audi, I use it also on the twin and it goes very well..recently I put it on a td, at the moment, the feel good, let's see how long it lasts!!
I would like to try the bardhal, but here I can not find it!!
franco75
15-11-2012, 21:19
According to me, no ? correct to say the brand name and not the type of oil, it is not possible to compare the Castrol Edge Castrol GTX.
For me the best that I have used ? the Mobil Esp 0-40 clearly superior to the Castro edge
dvdtuning
15-11-2012, 21:32
technical data say that the shell ultra helix 5w40 ? best of bardahl xtc60 5w40 as it has both ir? viscosity? at high temperatures, and is a about 30? in the pi? as a point of infiammabilit?.
just read the technical data sheets of the two oils, even if I remain for the bardahl...
franco75
15-11-2012, 21:57
technical data say that the shell ultra helix 5w40 ? best of bardahl xtc60 5w40 as it has both ir? viscosity? at high temperatures, and is a about 30? in the pi? as a point of infiammabilit?.
just read the technical data sheets of the two oils, even if I remain for the bardahl...
The data declared by the manufacturer?
take a cicerca on this:
ROYAL PURPLE ? see if you fit between your expectations.
dvdtuning
16-11-2012, 13:24
The data declared by the manufacturer?
You...let's say from the technical sheets of the products. On the website bardahl for? you will not find. As soon as I remember where I have seen the place...
dvdtuning
16-11-2012, 13:24
take a cicerca on this:
ROYAL PURPLE ? see if you fit between your expectations.
That surely ? excellent quality? but we are not there with the price.
That surely ? excellent quality? but we are not there with the price.
sorry, maybe I misunderstood, but no one spoke of very good quality?? if we talk about quality? at the time of this ? the best of all nn be fooled by the advertised brands are the other bottle..
Gianpy80
17-11-2012, 10:42
dvdtuning
18-11-2012, 13:16
sorry munro but I remember different data...reliable are these data??
I^^SPHINX^^
19-11-2012, 13:21
I always Royal Purple and ZX1 as an additive and I nn sn never found it bad.
Gianpy80
19-11-2012, 14:47
from the table it appears that the castrol edge sport is a p? too "dense" to 40? this keeps you on the pressure the fact ? for? that index of viscosity? so high ? a p? "mangiacavalli"....the best performance as well as protection and viscosity you have around 80-90 centistroke.....
well, of course surely the 300v ? pi? performance utiilizzi extreme.. but talking about car road (I'm not with the machine I never do on the track) with 370 hp I try to see also the economic aspect and the duration. Then with the winter temperatures of the Wedge a 10w60 in the winter it should be pi? indicated a 15w50. I am talking about a cold engine, of course..
Gianpy80
19-11-2012, 15:37
to be honest, the table I had never seen.. but on the advice of well-known "preparatory" I know that most of the people I know who use the car on the track using the 300v.. even on a motorcycle. I don't do extreme use and I never had any problems..? I do not deny that, according to me ? a p? too overrated.. c'? better short.. and at a much lower cost..
dvdtuning
19-11-2012, 15:49
I remember some of the values, type infiammabilit? that should be the flash column of your table. Remember that the selenia wr came up to 230?, the bardahl xtc 60 more than 200? and also the shell was not really the value. I refer to the technical data sheets of the manufacturers that I have had the opportunity to see here is why? I was wondering as to the reliability? of your data...
Personally, the choice of the lubricant, I think that is a fundamental thing. My choices are based on the technical specifications that you can often find in the net; I consider the viscosity? kinematics at different temperatures, the values of HTHS, freezing point and infiammabilit?, pi? in general, I try many pi? information relating to the ASTM specifications of the products that interest me. In the past I tried to analyse some oils (by a friend of the Bs Lubricants) used by me by making a comparison between Motul X-Clean 5W30, Castrol EDGE 5W30 and Bardahl Technos C-60 Exceeded 5W30 all used on my 118D N47D20A for no more? of 6 thousand Km and approximately in the same conditions.
From the various analyses it turned out that the Bardahl was not the great oil that had told me, that the X-Clean instead ? an excellent product, while the Catrol stood in the middle with values very close to X-Clean in terms of capacity? keep it in suspension, preventing sludge collected and debris filings, diesel, Etc.Etc...
Made this great preamble, I highly recommend you consult the technical data sheets of the products that you'd like to try, and to understand something about the test, I refer you to this Link:
http://www.astm.org/Standards/petroleum-standards.html
I'm attaching a couple of PDF's that for me have been "lights", here are the games my many searches.
1783
I hope I was helpful!
P.s.
In all of this, currently I'm finding myself with a Castrol EDGE FST Turbo Diesel 5W40 and also with Motul X-Cess 5W40!
Thanks for the compliments :)!
I want to clarify, since you are in the subject, which, from what I could understand with some research done, the point of infiammabilit? ? a value that is as much about pi? the security tab that the technical and beyond certain values (190?C) ? considered to be residual as a specification.
dvdtuning
19-11-2012, 19:02
Good explanation, V. V....
Bravo V. V. Everything is clear and understandable, congratulations!
dvdtuning
23-11-2012, 17:39
here is the data sheet for the bardahl oil 5w40
I recommend you read it all...then we'll talk if you v? what ? a good oil....
I know that Thread and I studied a lot even on the tables that you find in the Forum Process, to?, in my opinion, to have a good culture on the top ? this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy*****/
If Italy was economically viable to do a full analysis of the oils without svenarsi would be very pi? easy to find the best oil for our needs!
v. v can I ask you for an opinion on a lubricant used me? ? the royal purple 0w40 admixed with the rx-10 an additive to the base length, what do you say? thanks
http://www.bobistheoilguy*****/
On the Italian market, buying the oil from a certain source (official distributors of the brand, specialized in the field of lubrication), there are few alternatives, in my opinion, in terms of brands, and products. Personally I have the family car to Motul, Castrol and vehicles pistaioli to the Prorace or 300V of Motul. Then it all depends on where you put the lubricant, from the required specifications, and the whole apparatus...
the oil we use comes directly from the renox, as additives, of the motul I've heard very well, you say that the oils sold on ebay are unreliable?
the pakelo what do you think?
With regard to the purchases on eBay instead, I can tell you that some manufacturers have more? lines of the same product which are sold at different prices. The line pi? economic, that while respecting the stated specifications, however, has a quality? bottom lines destined to the shelves is usually conveyed in the market of the Dealer On-Line that make large volumes throughout the territory and that more and more? spent are paid on commission, they have price lists that are specific and different from those for the conventional market. Usually for OnLine purchases I try to work on the Shop authorized by the manufacturer of my interest, or otherwise recognized, preferably when making purchases abroad, where trade policies are very different from the Italian ones! The fact remains that the Renox ? an excellent company, in my opinion, highly stable, and managed by people with the so-called, even though the products that they sell are not to my liking and do not satisfy my needs.
Keep in mind, finally, that many retailers are not aware of the distinctions, which the producers operate in both markets, "OnLine"/"Shop physical" why? the products apparently are the same! Just for the sake of completeness, I invite you to take a ride on ****** using the following Key Words: "engine oil, counterfeit". The latter ? one of the main reasons why I am wary of purchasing this kind of through this trade channel.
I could ask you why you have a culture that is so great about lubricants??are you a dealer??
interesting...can you tell me comes to the factor of hths?some advice?on how to scegliereun good product for diesel very pumped??
Regarding the shear resistance on a given surface and a given thickness, molecular; we can say that under a value, which conventionally ? was fixed at 3.5 HTHS by the manufacturers, the oil complies with the specifications the so-called "Energy Saving" but said in a nutshell, the film of lubricant below such a value is considered to be weak. You also have to keep in mind that the shear strength of the layer to polarized also depends on the condition of the oil, and that the reference values are detected at 150? on the lubricant tend to be new. Each lubricant has capacity?, who is pi? less detergents, accordingly, with the use that is made of the same detergents, leads to a saturation of the lubricant which also has the ability? dispersants, or properties? that allow the product to keep in suspension the materials of wear (metal dust, oil residue burned, etc.etc.). How much more? the oil will be? then saturated as the value of HTHS the tender? to fall and stabilize at a certain threshold.
For completeness, I report to you a Link that is part of my study documentation:
http://www.hddeo*****/hthsarticle.html
Consider that from that encountered by the old colleagues, the values of HTHS is too high can also generate a content SAPS rather high, with the resulting deposits deleterious to segments, and exhaust systems type DPF, FAP, Catalysts and the like, as well as? for other components of the engine, while the levels of cenerei sulphated too low can ruin the valves and related. Personally, I prefer a tenor of Ash to the medium-high with a value of HTHS the middle, approximating the frequency of replacement, opt-out systems, anti-pollution.
V. V. I would like to take,if you give it to me,of your great knowledge on the world of lubricants to ask you for info specific to a project that st? bringing forward for several years now but it's not? if I can express everything here,not to go off topic, or open a thread specific...I could also contact you in pm but I'm not going to not share your immense knowledge with no one, and then I would prefer to discuss it publicly in such a way that anyone ? interested to learn more can benefit.....now I ask you how and where to write this new thread where I hope I enlighten to our admin then we update...ok?
guys I make you my compliments for the discussion, you are doing nothing short of interesting and very useful, good job :cool:
accippicchiolina!! I had never heard or seen anything of the genre such as sae grade lubricants...I thought that after the sae 60 is started to talk about oils "high EP" to be considered only for the mechanical transmissions in general..I did not think that there is a lubricant 0w100 for thrusters!! of the l? of this for? I have to say that the test frizionometro I will never be convinced too much because I don't create the actual conditions that a lubricant in an engine..and I am referring primarily to the pressure of the lubrication and the pompabilit? thing with the tool mentioned above and the operating temperature is more rightly did note V. v to the other particles in the suspension dates from the engine itself, for which there is ? in any way according to me to establish with certainty that a product ? better than another on the basis of this test, and aside from the fact that in the video that I have seen despite the frizionomero had an ammeter not ? never been framed for I do not know what are the reasons why this is not f? that confirm my beliefs on these tests which I think is not true even though, as you can see in the video the nebrok not f? lock the frizionometrica even without a tray....and however you will you teach me that this is a test of the frizionometro the time that is left I would also like to point out as with an alcohol content so high you should establish how many horses eat this lubricant in comparison to one with a lower sae undato engine with a given tolerance of machining of games a given pressure, the more the other countless fattrori that this test will never simulate....
Are perfettamnte agree Munro with what you say, the frizionometro ? only one way that they have invented the representatives to convince the masses to buy their products! The Nebrok instead ? an oil that I sent in the analysis, I smelled of Bardahl XTC 15W50 reimbottigliato ^_-!
and tell me V. V. what were the results of this "oil miracle"? and especially where it is ? how much is it?
finally, you would be on a diesel of up to several hundreds of cv's.....
In my engine, not entrer? never even a drop of oil! You can find him on eBay, for the price you have to do a search. The results were comparable to the Bardahl.
For the board you need, what engine is it?
then V. this is a motor mercedes om606.961 And class 300 turbo diesel with 4 valves per cylinder with the chamber spherical central that I'm modifying to mount it in my 190d to have not less than 400-450 hp from its 177 original...this engine originally mounted with the electronic pump that is not more than 80cc fuel I'm using a pump mercedes w124 300 td totally mechanical with pumping units, plus that I should give around 180-190cc fuel combined with a system componud turbo i.e. two turbo in a sequence where the first big air pump in the pressure in the second most small that elevates it further pressure all pressures ranging from 2.1 to 2.7 bar... according to the tuaesperienza about that oil potreiutilizzare on a monster of the genre by calculating the fact that this engine will also run something like 5800-6000 rpm maximum pressure mdie use triple in comparison to the stock?
I think I orientero on bardhal.... but from what I understand you are more inclined to the motul?
and as for oil, transmissions and brakes, what can you tell me V. V.?
but these sulphated what influence they have on the engine, especially on a diesel super pumped as what st? building? for the oils of the gearbox and the brakes, what do I puoidire about V. V.? what we need to move to get to the cause of the great products?
Unfortunately, there are no products that are better than others, but there are products for this and/or that use.
With regard to the Sulphated, according to my sources a high content of Sulphated determines a high detergent power of the lubricant that can? for? generate deposits if the product ? poorly dispersing! A low content of sulphated reduces the detergenta of the lubricant, resulting in the build-up of deposits that they must not, therefore, be maintained in suspension, with all the advantages that it consegueno for the anti-pollution. With low sulphated cons are certain deposits, with high sosfatate deposits depend on the poor disperdenza. High sosfatate require oil changes more? close, to the contrary of what happens with the modern lubricants, designed to have change intervals are extended, and then necessarily containing a pi? low ash content, in order to avoid the premature saturation of the lubricant.
in other words, you're telling me that in the case of the bardhal with a fair value of these sulphated these I keep the engine nice and clean and with little material residual amount of combustion around the oil in suspension in the end,if very high, given the enormous quantity of diesel fuel in the game,you may inzozzare so the oil from jeopardizing its specific values of lubrication??
I understood well?
said even more simply without sulphated enough the oil f? in a short time a lot of black for via deiresidui crbniosi who fail adiperdersi and this assotigli the veil of lubricant on the critical parts?
Pi? whether or not the juice ? that; given that the sar? a racing engine without after-treatment systems of exhaust Gases, a ****s Ash a bit more? the top is not allowed? to contribute to the health of the engine, without prejudice to the characteristics of disperdenza of the lubricant, they will have to? to be replaced the most? frequently lubricants with Ash bass, but just as dispersants, and additives packages, but is not limited to, type TC3158 class API CF4 "Ashless", antioxidants, package type GL1951, T151, Etc.Etc...
Then in the choice of the lubricant should be considered adds anti-friction, on which I attached a PDF in the previous post, the foamers, the base type used by the manufacturer, as well as? the declared specifications.
dott.chem
08-12-2012, 11:58
I know that Thread and I studied a lot even on the tables that you find in the Forum Process, to?, in my opinion, to have a good culture on the top ? this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy*****/
If Italy was economically viable to do a full analysis of the oils without svenarsi would be very pi? easy to find the best oil for our needs!
It is to be a p? I have in mind to do a specific analysis by ICP Mass to engine oils.
If where I work give me the chance?, I do the analysis on the oils, new and used.
However, if you are interested I can inform you also about the price to the public for a detailed analysis of the elements that make up the oil.
If I'm lucky ? can I grant the tool for one or two tests, but not for a lot of free-of-charge.
The spectro-analysis ? feasible at specialized centers with a few euros, in the order of 20/30? and ? very helpful with regards to the oils, if it is possible (not all do), to make an estimation of the concentrations of metal on the volume analyzed; in respect of the non-metals, can? be useful to check also the type of additive processes adopted on lubricants such as length, sulfates, graphite, etc.etc, but ? always need an estimate of the concentrations.
I take the opportunity to attach another interesting document that is in my collection of PDF; can't I use the service of the Forum, why? exceeds the allowable size!
http://www.filehosting.org/file/details/401282/La_Lubrificazione.pdf
dott.chem
08-12-2012, 14:10
L spectrophotometric analysis not ? indicated in these cases, The ? for mass spectrometry. And this last one ? expensive for the initial treatment of the sample and instrument to use. Operators are also highly specialized
Yeah, I spoke to you of the type of HPLC or ICP but not all are able to estimate the concentrations detected, depends on the instrumentation used that I know of!
dott.chem
08-12-2012, 21:30
It is a complex topic, both in terms of HPLC (chromatographic technique) ICP-Mass spectrometric technique), we would go off-topic and you annoierebbero many. I think it is better to leave this discourse. Then I don't know...
tuommo89
08-12-2012, 21:52
Always used mobil 1 0-40 w , on the mercedes clk 220cdi , ? I've always been very ,
also on the golf 4 and opel corsa c 1.3 mj , always mobil 1 , with identification of different of course!! =)
checcosassu
26-12-2012, 09:45
mobil1 0w40 for the 147 150 hp :)
I personally use bardhal and I have always found it very good additives in the oil will not use. The additive in the diesel fuel to clean out the system
ecutuningpro
03-01-2013, 11:13
I use as an additive in the oil to the zx1-based fluoretene, and say I am fine for several years.
Hello all, I wanted to offer this survey to see which engine oil you have found the best and what do you think ? the best? It's always good to accompany it with an additive to teflon, for example?
I use bardahl xtc 60 5w40 on my 147 jtd ex 115 and I am a lot better than the selenia that I used before but don't use additives.
Also I have always got on well with the oil bardahl xtc I used it always on my old Alfa... to the next by cutting the commit :)
dvdtuning
04-01-2013, 21:09
I use as an additive in the oil to the zx1-based fluoretene, and say I am fine for several years.
Perhaps you mean fullerene...
I want to clarify that ? official the presence of fullerene in the ZX1 but ? a piece of news is divulged by those who, at the time, he decided to import it. To test the facts and analysis not ? never been reported in the presence of the additives, EP-a molecules in the solid, in addition, that I know of, the same manufacturer has never recommended the use of the same in the engine oil.
dvdtuning
05-01-2013, 14:34
I want to clarify that ? official the presence of fullerene in the ZX1 but ? a piece of news is divulged by those who, at the time, he decided to import it. To test the facts and analysis not ? never been reported in the presence of the additives, EP-a molecules in the solid, in addition, that I know of, the same manufacturer has never recommended the use of the same in the engine oil.
In the bardahl instead, in what percentage ? employee?I think it is very low.
cinqueturbo
05-01-2013, 15:04
Hi all! I once used an additive with ceramic micro but I can't remember the manufacturer, and it was phenomenal...
the effects were-turbolag-motor? and consumption significantly reduced...
among other things, guaranteeing the effectiveness of up to 80,000 miles and I have to say that the cost of 30.00 And it was worth it..
I would be next to miles and I know that I riuser?...as soon as the meeting..
those who, like m'? the to used and disassembled the engine says he has found a patina strange on the bushings
I suppose you deposit into the mechanical parts with tolerances and under stress
I use Bardahl tecnos c60, 5/40 on my 1.3 mjet. The benefits compared to the Shell that was used in the workshop Suzuki are definitely more silent operation? cold, and a less fumosit?. For another when the exchange has no lumps or strange things.
Ah, and whereas, the machine in use on the race track, I have never had any type of problem.
I use Bardahl tecnos c60, 5/40 on my 1.3 mjet. The benefits compared to the Shell that was used in the workshop Suzuki are definitely more silent operation? cold, and a less fumosit?. For another when the exchange has no lumps or strange things.
Ah, and whereas, the machine in use on the race track, I have never had any type of problem.
Excellent oil the bardal,especially for cars prepared
The Exact Admin...
I mainly use it why? I knew him through the scooter 125 4T...when I did, I never pi? left.
hello on my car I have always used bardahl I bought a ford 1.8 d. naturally aspirated engine new after its 1000km only bardahl I gave it away with 789000km and today are still walking then, with my first moster900 we've done 92000km before making the bands, and the like, I use it since 1992 and I have ir? left as oil and lubricants, I am fine
Exside81
21-01-2013, 23:47
I was on my stylus Use Bargahl C60 With Ceramic power liquid that lasts for 100,000 Km.For the exchange always bardahl with Ceramic Power Liquid GearBox
I have always found it good!
checcosassu
22-01-2013, 07:41
on my 147 the use mobil1 0w40 , ? the best tried up to now.
usardaun
05-02-2013, 21:40
For me the best, Mobil1 0w40 and also castrol 5w30!
legendaryslave
05-02-2013, 22:01
as an authorized workshop motul I can promote this brand eye, however, the viscosity does not indicate if an oil ? better than another you must always observe the gradation indicated by the manufacturer then a 0-30 not ? best of one 0-40 only because it costs more than' we also see the specifications required by the home itself, then the only thing you can change ? the brand of oil but specific and viscosity ? one
I Agree, Motul ? a great brand within the "brake fluid" where has churned out a product that is deadly, that is called RBF660! Sar? very hygroscopic but ? terrific! Given also the relatively low cost I replace once a year.
We are off topic, but have you pulled in dance....I also use the RBF but the 600...11 laps pulled Racalmuto, only sports pads, discs and tubes ori rubber, absolutely no problem...
The end OT
ale blunders
15-02-2013, 16:53
now all types of oil are almost similar price ? the only difference
usardaun
15-02-2013, 17:44
Maaaaaa, not direiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!!!!!
as an authorized workshop motul I can promote this brand eye, however, the viscosity does not indicate if an oil ? better than another you must always observe the gradation indicated by the manufacturer then a 0-30 not ? best of one 0-40 only because it costs more than' we also see the specifications required by the home itself, then the only thing you can change ? the brand of oil but specific and viscosity ? one
and go from a 0w40 to 5w40 pu? give problems? I speak of specifications for bmw 530d euro 4
usardaun
15-02-2013, 22:21
Complies with the specifications and never have a problem, a piece of advice, never change the oil specifications!!!!
as specifications bardahl technos 5w40 ? better than bmw, change the colour, I have advised bardahl reassuring me that ? better
franco75
16-02-2013, 12:48
but the BMW should not use the 5-30 longlife or I am wrong?
my booklet shows 0w30 -- 0w40 and for refilling 5w40
checcosassu
16-02-2013, 13:53
mobil1 0w40
usardaun
16-02-2013, 14:48
I confirm longlife 5-30!
but the 5w30 ? for the 2000d I have the 3000d
usardaun
16-02-2013, 15:40
I knew that also goes on the 3000d! I used it on the x5!
I knew that also goes on the 3000d! I used it on the x5!
you have done well why? it is also good for that
but the 5w30 ? for the 2000d I have the 3000d
5w30 or 40 changes little important thing and use an oil with full synthetic and change it, not when he tells you the house e.g. bmw 30000km but the max 15000km and go safe
sportknight
16-02-2013, 20:16
well I don't think that the bardhal is different from the one of the suppliers for sale online
checcosassu
16-02-2013, 20:28
? the same type of oil, do not believe the official suppliers
usardaun
16-02-2013, 20:57
However, it also runs a lot of oil counterfeit!
I do not believe that it is the same, the price ? different, and is a reason there must be, then I'd rather not take the risk of person, I contacted the official dealers bardahl and value? the offer better ? impossible that the same oil taken on ebai to 11 euro per kg, official dealer costs 16 euros discounted
guys like oil filters and what brand ? the best according to you? I saw the invoice I seem to be well made filters, mahle/knecht bmw usa mann filter
marco1985
17-02-2013, 12:39
I use bardhal from a life, for me and my clients , that are good (including me) are also in use on the track!
usardaun
17-02-2013, 14:42
I confirm, fine filters, mahle knecht!!!!
in the forum of germans speak very well compared to the classic bosch and mann filter, I have a spare in the house and up to now I have always found it very good, the invoice ? attention to detail and the filtering material is very good
in the forum of germans speak very well compared to the classic bosch and mann filter, I have a spare in the house and up to now I have always found it very good, the invoice ? attention to detail and the filtering material is very good
Excellent as those bosch nor more nor less, and
usardaun
18-02-2013, 09:46
However also took inspiration are great!!! the mountain often as the first plant to wv!
ale blunders
20-02-2013, 13:40
of course on the basis of the graduation, but if I take a 5/40 d a brand name and a d a other brand are the same some a 10/40 not ? equal to a 5/40
usardaun
20-02-2013, 20:56
Are not exactly the same, the oil ? of the same shade but ? the quality? changes!
Here are some comparative test:
http://filtrationcomparisons.weebly*****/index.html
and knecht, what do you think?
usardaun
22-02-2013, 09:03
And yet I was convinced that knecht was by far the best of the ufi! and Muller as they are?
Exside81
22-02-2013, 22:27
Filters UFi are very good, we can also understand from the price of the xch? ? a product that is very valid!
checcosassu
23-02-2013, 09:12
I'm also apply filters bosch and tecnocar
but let me understand one thing... I have olive oil of excellent quality? in my engine and I don't have a granch? oil? My ? oil castrol FST 5w30. Then I have to change?
You are not obliged to change.
Depends on how you like it. Personally I don't use ir? Castrol in general, but c'? even those who said to be very good at it.
but let me understand one thing... I have olive oil of excellent quality? in my engine and I don't have a granch? oil? My ? oil castrol FST 5w30. Then I have to change?
what car do you have?
maku1977
02-03-2013, 12:16
motul 8100.... the whole of life!!!! and even with the bike....motul
checcosassu
02-03-2013, 13:38
for the 147 1.9 jtdm selenia not ? the maximum?
eh eh eh!!!!
I have a a4 2008 2.0 143cv then ? a CR. Audi says to put Castrol, but we know that there are trade issues. Sincerely I do not buy the oil from them at 25€ a litre, but the order in germany, still branded VW cos? to be the same. For? now I been saying that ? the top!!!
maku1977
02-03-2013, 15:07
to me castrol don't like , I also have a vw 2.0 tdi and I'm going to motul. also because even though I haven't tested it I people.... castrol is not that it is a great oil... ce is definitely better
it seems that in fact, motul and bardahl are similar in performance but the techon c60 msaps seems to be the best
You xo according to me we should also indicate the precise oil parliami. I, for example, I always take the 5w30 vw official with technology fst. If I were to change to motul, which one should I take and what would be different?
I use castrol edge 5w 30 excellent I am fine :D
I always castrol FST 5w-30 and I have also found good until today!
marco1985
17-03-2013, 19:25
well, the alcohol content varies from engine to engine, rather I think that we should emphasize, that brand you ? found better, even why? from brand to brand, even in parit? proof, I guarantee you that the density? of the oil not ? for nothing the same perit? temperature!
minijuri
18-03-2013, 12:57
bardahl xtc c60 0w30 and 5w40....... and motul 300v competition
MultiBravo
18-03-2013, 19:58
bardahl technos C60 5w30 low saps
I Xtreme with specific Porsche:
5001
Full Synt
Motor Oil
SAE 5W40
API SM/CF -
ACEA A3/B3/B4
MB 229.3 -
VW 500.00+502.00
+505.00+505.01
OPEL B-025 -
BMW LL 01 -
PORSCHE
checcosassu
18-03-2013, 22:08
for the engine jtdm has anyone tried to the best of mobil1 0w40?
Xtreme0303
18-03-2013, 22:11
for the mjet use motul 8100 and the bike 300v or xtc 60, additives tulap for injection and return!!
checcosassu
18-03-2013, 22:14
what bike are you referring to? I have gsr 600 and use motul 5100
Xtreme0303
18-03-2013, 23:16
I had a z750 2008, and is now a zx10r 2006, the 5100 I would not ? fully synthetic, the 7100 on the internet is at the very low price =)
checcosassu
18-03-2013, 23:28
ok it held? account, I have complied with the warranty booklet suzuki..
Xtreme0303
18-03-2013, 23:45
if you do not have the particular velleit? that's fine, but for my "fixing" use only oil full synthetic =)
MultiBravo
19-03-2013, 19:59
for the engine jtdm has anyone tried to the best of mobil1 0w40?
That jtdm engine do you have?
You have oil consumption and you have made some tests with different types of oils?
Xtreme0303
19-03-2013, 20:42
usually we do in the workshop that the gradation don't use it, but 5w30 is usually
I have an endless list of episodes to tell,of the people attached with brand oils for then to find oils discrete and dirty engines.
We ? from pi? 20 years that we are working on it, and right now, we can't complain. For no reason. and gave us a lot of sodisfazioni. Roloil!
For accuracy the 5w40 called platinum ? an excellent lubricant.
Lately we have also used the petronas and I have to say that is not bad
luigigtc
23-03-2013, 13:36
I am in mopeds, 50, 125, 300, and cars such as the 1.3 mjet, 1.2 8v fiat, citroen 1.0 12v, always used castrol (actevo, top 50, magnatec's, etc, etc) never had any problems or other episodes
checcosassu
23-03-2013, 13:57
That jtdm engine do you have?
You have oil consumption and you have made some tests with different types of oils?
I have the 1.9 jtdm 110 kw on the alfa 147 , pi? that oil consumption I have smoke from the exhaust especially at startup.. For now I only tried castrol.
I have the 1.9 jtdm 110 kw on the alfa 147 , pi? that oil consumption I have smoke from the exhaust especially at startup.. For now I only tried castrol.
Only cold or too hot? strange that the tsi engines smoke ( I guess that is white smoke)
Xtreme0303
23-03-2013, 14:26
oh I forgot, as a negative opinion of the selenia for mjt...cold start disastrous than the motul
checcosassu
23-03-2013, 18:54
Only cold or too hot? strange that the tsi engines smoke ( I guess that is white smoke)
You just cold ? white smoke tends to be blue, but annoying as well as sight to the acrid smell that enters the cabin, then to warm it disappears.
Km of the car? was the turbine? the car ? mapped? and especially the egr in that condition
franco75
23-03-2013, 19:03
also in my Audi 3.0 is a smoke smelly, I blame the high mileage, 250,000 km. castrol oil in a 5-w-30
Xtreme0303
23-03-2013, 19:36
it also happens to me on a white smoke at start-up, the turbine just put new
antonio.o
23-03-2013, 21:04
I use Selenia WR 5W30 on the alfa 159 JTDM before I used castrol but I have broken the turbine is not s? if it was the oil mah... I forgot 100000 KM. even with a remap not a drop of smoke.
Xtreme0303
23-03-2013, 21:10
heating and cool down...that affect ir? any other thing in the turbo..
checcosassu
23-03-2013, 21:39
Km of the car? was the turbine? the car ? mapped? and especially the egr in that condition ??
The car socket used and marked 120,000 km, clean the egr immediately and now have to 137,000 km. The turbine is not given so I guess good..Doing diagnosis by me are not rimappe in the ecu..
for the bike if the clutch and gearbox run with the same oil as the engine always put the oil recommended by the manufacturer if you do not want to encounter clutches burned and exchange-split
Xtreme0303
23-03-2013, 22:56
as a gradation, with regards to the brand leave the indications trusted
MultiBravo
24-03-2013, 09:40
I saw blue smoke after the mass in motion several euro 4 diesel also does not fiat if the temperatures are cold.
I don't think burn oil but I think it's a matter of enrichment fuel/advance injection provided by the control unit to the temperature, pressure, and a thousand other calculations.
Maybe an eye on the glow plugs, if you warm up properly even if they are not interrupted the give since we do not know if they have ever been replaced.
The last thing that comes to mind ? on the 16V, there are the swirl valves on the intake manifold, it is easy to dirty and not working properly, even though ?
a lot of work dismantling of the group manifold...
The fumosit? cold my the has always done.. But with the bardhal ? very limited. The valve swirl, not only in the process of shutting down, to avoid hum high the motor? We are off topicpero.
MultiBravo
24-03-2013, 12:55
The fumosit? cold my the has always done.. But with the bardhal ? very limited. The valve swirl, not only in the process of shutting down, to avoid hum high the motor? We are off topicpero.
The valves swirl, explained quickly, serve to enhance the filling of the cylinders to the low-to-medium schemes by changing the geometry of the intake tract.
Ok, my confusion then! Thanks for the clarification.
msport (exil77grande)
24-03-2013, 16:58
I would appreciate not you went off topic, thanks.
checcosassu
24-03-2013, 22:22
I saw blue smoke after the mass in motion several euro 4 diesel also does not fiat if the temperatures are cold.
I don't think burn oil but I think it's a matter of enrichment fuel/advance injection provided by the control unit to the temperature, pressure, and a thousand other calculations.
Maybe an eye on the glow plugs, if you warm up properly even if they are not interrupted the give since we do not know if they have ever been replaced.
The last thing that comes to mind ? on the 16V, there are the swirl valves on the intake manifold, it is easy to dirty and not working properly, even though ?
a lot of work dismantling of the group manifold...
The glow plugs are new, whereas for valves swirl works only one driven by a motor and the other free why? rod without swirl. However, today I discovered that I had the bottom hose of the intercooler holes.
what temperatures you have in your areas? I have a bravo 1.9 jtdm 150 hp and from my area we've arrived at 2-3? C and I do not smoke. Mine has 140000 km
checcosassu
25-03-2013, 23:17
what temperatures you have in your areas? I have a bravo 1.9 jtdm 150 hp and from my area we've arrived at 2-3? C and I do not smoke. Mine has 140000 km
I'm in Sardinia and in these days we are about 15 degrees.
MultiBravo
26-03-2013, 13:20
I'm in Sardinia and in these days we are about 15 degrees.
Known with some cars, that sometimes the fumosit? appears at intermediate temperatures and for absurd sub-zero anything... I assume therefore? the mapping of fuel vs. engine temperature/environment at times ? a p? too rich or advances a little pushed and cos? see the fumatina...or I noticed if I used the engine for a long time in the city? and maybe has not even reached the operating temperature, the cos? thereby causing a "fouling of the engine".
Since we are OT, we could create a new topic and dedicated to collecting the most? information? what do you think?
use mobil1 0/40 several years, excellent product
Could you specify in which area you are? to use a 0w40 you should find yourself at the top of the alps, no? :o
attila848
03-04-2013, 20:44
forgive me guys but on the basis of the parameters which dates the reviews of the various quality? of oils?
dvdtuning
03-04-2013, 21:17
Technical data sheets...
attila848
03-04-2013, 21:21
Technical data sheets...
I'm sorry, then ? a survey is useless!!
I see oil as the technical specification exceeds...............
dvdtuning
03-04-2013, 21:27
Wrong!! not the specific ones...the characteristics of the various oils and also the impressions/the benefits that you have on the engine used!
There are 22 pages to read, read and see there? that ? written...? useless to repeat to infinity!
Could you specify in which area you are? to use a 0w40 you should find yourself at the top of the alps, no? :o
what do you hope to achieve with a 0w40 rather than a 5w40 or even 5w30? you have not answered
MultiBravo
04-04-2013, 00:54
I am of the opinion not to change the gradation recommended by the house mother...
I feel different to go from 5w40 recommended to 5w30 or 0w30... Well, the use of fuel economy oils of low viscosity?
on engines that are not born for that type of lubricant can? cause damage to the engine.
Then ok at the specific improvements, but the viscosity? not the toccherei, especially the second digit
Between a 0W40 and a 5W40 change the values of HTHS, and viscosity? kinematics at various temperatures, sulphated ash, disperdenza, point infiammabilit?, pour point, additive processes and then the ability? anti-friction, anti-wear, detergency, capability? polarization. These differences are also between two oils of the same tranche but of different brands (two 5W40 of two different brands to be considered). Consider that just adds n? there are by the bucket load and the various brands they carry forward some: commercially speaking, for example, Bardahl ? the promoter of additive processes EP-a molecules in a solid, Yamalube and Motul Double Ester, etx...
It's like comparing the various types of mineral water and carbonated on the basis of tds, sodium, and anything else: not a simple undertaking.
explanation impeccable and very valuable, the great v. v. :cool:
explanation excellent! I would like to see these differences between the various oils!
angelolsp
18-04-2013, 01:43
I have found much wrong with the Castol oils... for me, the best oils are the Bardhal
MultiBravo
18-04-2013, 13:15
Bad in what sense? consumption of oil, heat and pressure, sludge in the engine?
I also tried the 5w40 magnatec's, being fullsynt, was hoping for a better cleaning inside the engine..
angelolsp
18-04-2013, 14:23
evil in the sense ke became water...I speak of the 10w40
MultiBravo
18-04-2013, 22:36
Understood..
Now what kind of bardhal do you use? have you tried other brands?
angelolsp
18-04-2013, 23:07
Always a 10w40
MultiBravo
19-04-2013, 12:56
You can draw up a list of the staff of the 10w40 you tried?
angelolsp
19-04-2013, 14:42
1) Bardhal
2)Motul
3)Selenia
4)Gm oil..and the oil regenerated l I have used it in extreme conditions, and no I can't complain
5) Catrol
Both on car and on the bike I am fine with Bardhal Xtc60. Drive use the 5w-40 while on the scooter to the 10w-50.
Exside81
24-04-2013, 12:19
Someone conesce some heat treatment to change, and the purpose of it?
I would advise additive exchange for when the gears are struggling to get in?
and I to the exchange, I recommend you additives bardhal are also great as an oil
guys, after having tested the bardahl technos c60 5w40 msaps on 3 family car, and having driven a p? km can I just say that ? a very good oil, in particular, I noticed that on the fiesta of my mother before the cold, the ignition was a thread of blue smoke, now is pi? and the silent operation? hot ? much improved I can be satisfied
angelolsp
24-04-2013, 21:54
All bardhal!!! I have always found perfectly
Dragonfly
25-04-2013, 10:25
Put in the oil for this treatment and the vedrette that difference!!!!! NANOTEK
yes, but at what cost? no exaggeration, I would say
Someone conesce some heat treatment to change, and the purpose of it?
I would advise additive exchange for when the gears are struggling to get in?
You stra council the Sintoflon Gearlube. You put a little more of the percentage recommended by them. To me has helped a lot of gears come with a finger.
Dragonfly
25-04-2013, 15:39
yes, but at what cost? no exaggeration, I would say
Not an additive and a treatment, this sigifica that stays with you for at least 100,000 Miles. Did you find it ? Where???
on their official website c'? also the price list
MultiBravo
29-04-2013, 12:36
The treatments for exchange must be added to the new oil?
You can add to an oil that has already? of kilometres on the shoulders?
Dragonfly
29-04-2013, 13:46
The treatments for exchange must be added to the new oil?
You can add to an oil that has already? of kilometres on the shoulders?
Depends on the miles, if you have 60,000 or down from them, you should change it
angelolsp
29-04-2013, 23:31
It's because by now, but you can 6 change...always a new oil ?...
Analysis of the table
Behold, this is the table that collects the data declared by the houses...
Based on these data the pure you could say "damn that champions the RedLine", "holy moly that good Castrol"...
Pity that the counter-evidence disprove bad such data which I repeat are optimistic for the Castrol and completely in the case to the RedLine, which luckily for us is bad...
The excellent data of the Motul 300V are real, and then I would say that is at the head of the table...
Immediately below Mobil1 and Shell, Q8, and Selenia to take much into consideration.
Not present in the table, the great Royal Purple 5W40 and the Pakelo Racing which stands out ALL the lubricants are taken into account (and all others) on the whole line...
Guide to interpret the data:
- SAE grade: a pure joke... the first number indicates the viscosity at cold, and the second hot... as you can see the actual data differ for the same SAE grade... but no one takes it into account...
- Viscosity at 40?C that is cold: minor before the oil gets to lubricate the upper parts of the engine like the valves, especially our that you are with the hydraulic tappets, and, in fact, make the casino in the first few seconds of operation... this figure has a value less than the pour point, which I explain next...
- Viscosity at 100?C i.e.' hot: more and more the engine is protected at high temperatures, however, this data is worth a lot less of the ratio HT/HS, which I'll explain more later...
- Index of viscosity': I do not remember exactly but it should be a weighted index of 2 viscosity previous...
- HT/HS, the data most important: indicates the resistance of the oil film on the surfaces. Audi requires at least 3.5 but be careful: this figure tends to decrease with the wear of the oil and the addition of additives...
- Pour point: minimum temperature at which the oil is "pumpable". In the real world add 15?C for the minimum temperature of the year.
- Flash point: flash point'. Useful data to utiizzi in the race.
- Longlife: symptom presence and a minor detergent additives... negative fact on sports cars...
Notes, advice and tips on various lubricants:
- specific (type 503.01, etc): I have not reported since they are ONLY bought by the producers, especially Castrol that buys them all! A good oil meets all of the specifications in the course: Pakelo for example, create the formulas, "revised" to include really new specifications. The only specific important 503.02 that requires HT/HS greater than 3.5. In a few respect it...
- 5W40 if good is good for all of our car for all climates. Ditto for a good oil to even the most hard as Motul, Mobil, Pakelo.
- 5W30 gradation that I don't recommend in any case. Can go well in the winter, but absolutely not for the summer: we evaporates the middle... then do not complain of the high consumption of oil.... I just had the BAM I put a Pakelo 0W30 for the winter and I have consumed 1 litre in about 6000km. Put the Pakelo Racing and' much more' hard to even a drop of consumption in the same km! The shades with the 30 have a sense for the oils of average quality on the car in high europe...
- 10W40 ALL of these are NOT full synth. Some mecca, this doesn't interest you (and the gradation of the most used by the mecca generic because it is the most economic).
- Full synth is NOT even the Bardahl C60. Do you think that even NO OIL (part 1 and guess what') and' 100% full synth, because a law is obliged to use a minimum amount of recycled... having Said this, according to me, it's pure madness to put a NON-full synth in the motor from over 100 HP/lt (then a turbo) or more than 9000rpm (a honda)...
- warm up the engine from a standstill to 20" in the summer, up to 1 minute in the winter. If you are too much time with the engine idling, the exhaust gases penetrate the elastic bands because of the low backpressure and go to dirty the oil is decimating the property. You do not like the ducatisti that warm the bike, even for half an hour... they are all caxxate. Do you think that in Germany there are also the fine for this is because the polluted saw that the cat does not function in the cold...
- additives: let them lose' cause unbalance the formulation of the engine as well as create other side effects. A good oil contains all the additives that are needed. The only oils with excellent anti-friction additives are Royal Purple and Pakelo Racing. Bardahl says that contains them (fullerene), but it's not true: I spit every so often and I just...
- the jelly yellow under the cap of the oil and the test that you are using an oil kakka
- bubbles under the cap of the oil indicate the infiltration of moisture into the cup
- the ****llo of the oil is measured in the plane, the engine is warm, turned off for at least 10 minutes. This ****llo should stay below the max for normal use to the max before a track day or a sgaloppata.
- the clarity of the new oil denotes a great job of refining and here Castrol school, especially in the last 2 years. A used oil clear, instead, it is a sign of very negative! Let me explain better: a good oil has detergent additives, in amounts variable depending on the formulation, and of the destination of use. A racing oil has many detergents and in fact you wear now, but it keeps the engine clean. Of course, I'm generalizing anyway, I would say that if the engine is in good condition and the oil is good and with the right sugar content, if you are racing you must darken towards the 4-5000km, if they are not racing must darken within 8-9000km. If this does not occur or the engine is brand new or the used oil does not cleans well. If it happens before means that heat too much the engine stationary, or that you have the engine I am sorry and maybe you have used oils few good previously, the changes of time. Many km in the city are any other causes for the reasons of the low controrpessione that I said before.
- refill: refill with usual brand and model of oil, ok, if different. Rabbocare with different oil means to mix different additives and encourage unwanted chemical reactions and harmful... it is obvious that if we are on the highway and the light comes on it is also good olive oil, but then it is better to download everything as soon as....
- the indicator of waste oil and the increase of consumption: always generalizing, if the engine is in good condition, used normally, an increase in the consumption of oil indicates that its properties are in decline, the beginning of the end.
- the right oil consumption: how do you determine that? Question 1 billion euros... I Try to answer... I Try to generalize, but here the experience. We assume always that the engine is in good condition, used normally (city, state, highway, routes, average, a few pulled out) and with the oil just as a gradation and type. Here, in these conditions, what consumes you is the one that should be consumed in......!!!! Sbilanciandomi with some data I would say that our 1.8, being a turbo, they are on half a kilo every 8000km. If' more' is something wrong or the oil is not the right one. I quote the 2 extreme 2 home Honda: the 2.2 diesel has an energy consumption of "normal" 1lt every 1,500 km (!!!!!!!) while the K20A 2.0-200cv comes to consume only 0.25 lt 15000km......!!!!
- gear oil: you should open another chapter, I saw that both the topic in which there is more ignorance.. first of all there has to be put on the engine oil like a lot of mecca.... In the gear box there are many stresses seen that we get a lot of torque and power, multiplied by the reduction ratio. You then create perhaps rubbing and pressure high that a normal oil cannot withstand. If, then, and a limited-slip differential, things become much more critical still. A good gear oil contains special additives for gears and synchronizers. The alcohol content is more or less the same for all: 75W90, upper race, lower to exchange critical. Of course for the self-locking LSD you need a specific oil with additives to be slightly different. The additives should only be used to resolve issues with oils good. The oils that are the best currency exchange are Pakelo, for a change, a leader in the industry since it produces oils and fats for tractors and caterpillar when there are.... Royal Purple excellent especially on the changes in the Subaru. Motul is a bit of a duretto for normal use, ok for the track. Castrol ok to use only normal, but are a bit leggerini. When to replace it? at least every 2 oil changes engine on the self-locking. more rarely on gear boxes, differential normal. If you enter the wrong gears in the cold pakelo solve each problem. But not immediately: the oil with additives must penetrate into the metal and rirpistinare surfaces.
MultiBravo
26-05-2013, 10:45
Great info!!! Great!
Now that I've started to use the bardahl you make me doubt to have it taken..:)
Anyone has the datasheet of the technos exceed 5w30 or you have to ask for it to the bardahl? in the network there's nothing unfortunately..
the bardahl not disclose any information and change the supplier of raw materials very often, I do not take? pi? this ? sure, now I'm going to pakelo krypton lt
danny677
26-05-2013, 23:50
In my experience, I have used several brands and different shades.
Among all, I stopped to royal purple 10w40
Not ? oil not cheap but, where I work with the gas they put in almost all of the cars that pass ( alerting the owners ) and up to now, zero problems.
In addition, many of their customers are people quite neglected, and often are living for a coupon even after 25-30k miles and the well-known ch at the end of the day, even after those miles ? anything battered..
I also use it in my family car and cars are not properly guided by "gramps"
PS if it can? to be useful, even on a couple of cars a treat I have tested positively for a motorcycle oil or the Elf 15W50 that on the baya is located just a few eur. What to say !! ? a show for as it has reduced the oil consumption and zero problems of wear and tear, mechanical fatigue or other.. if I were advising him, I would do 100 %
I have not fallen in the prejudice that was for the bike and you ? :cool:
MultiBravo
27-05-2013, 00:06
Royal purple and pakelo oils are, however, difficult-to-twenty-four? or are only a little known to the pi??
are not at all difficult to find indeed, just look it up on the web, and you are out with ease? also on ebay
Between pakelo and royal purple always 5w-40 what's your advice?
SandroMarciano
27-05-2013, 11:42
*garret, thanks for your treatise ? definitely very interesting.
I up to now I tried bardall xtc 5w40 and I have not found evil, now I'm on castrol 10w60 why? auto elaborate, but without the oil cooler, so the temperature rise to the stars... for now the change every 15000km, of course, treating the car as he explained garret and I have never had any problem of abnormal consumption or another, topping up about 0.25 every 12000km...
Gearbox oil do I assemble the bardall 75w90 and gears come always accurate, I can't complain.
hello sandro, I will say that the castrol edge 10w60 ? the only castrol oil worthy of note, also use it on the m3 v8 420cv and other cars with engines pushed, then you have done well to purchase it for change I use the royal purple 75w140 and ? fantastic, in exchange for the clio that I use as a forklift, I had the second and the fourth that scratching and from cold the first struggled to enter, now after 5,000 miles I change that ? a fairy tale, the gears come to perfection, and ? became much more? soft, I believe that the oil business will go well on a naturally aspirated engine is not driven, and maybe not recent, for the turbocharged petrol and diesel and the aspirated pushed, I consider pakelo the top and second place in royal purple, c'? to say that the pakelo has specific c3 for diesel engines, which as we know are dirty, most of the oil compared to gasoline, while royal purple does not have this specific, but I know guys who use it for years and I am very happy, the only thing you can do to a diesel engine ? change it about 10,000 km, for oil, we say good, we have to take into account the shell helix ultra and the motul 300v for the rest are all lubricants from the supermarket rincarati without reason, I guys are one that the oil changes very often, at least every 10,000 km but now, pakelo for diesel and royal purple for gasoline, will be my choice
Between pakelo and royal purple always 5w-40 what's your advice?
hi david, it depends on what type of engine you have, if diesel ? better pakelo 5w40 krypton lt, while if you have a turbocharged petrol, the royal purple 5w40 ? very good
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