View The Full Version : Poll: Your best engine oil + any additives
SandroMarciano
27-05-2013, 16:59
the problem ? that the oils that you speak of are very high prices, instead of a castrol 10w60 with 12€ if you bring home a liter...
with regard to the gear oil when I empty the prover? the royal purple that you use...
sandro I prefer to have the maximum in quality? but only because? I do a few miles, I realize that for a person who does 50,000 km a year, it becomes very expensive, to the limit of a motul 300v ? the fallback is better or, alternatively, the mobil 1, beware of counterfeits for? especially on ebay
megamind
27-05-2013, 17:06
Hi garret, I have a honda 2.2 diesel but does not consume 1 lt. for every 1,500 km!
With bardal recommended by the manufacturer tecnos c60 st? around half a litre every 5,000 (sfappata).
that article was not mine, I copied and pasted, I the bardahl account a priori, the case recommended oils according to commercial contracts and not to their quality? specific unfortunately
megamind
27-05-2013, 17:30
Ok what do you think of the mobil ESP 0W-40 or the newlife ESP 0W-40.
Which one ? better?
first of all, I believe that the 0w40 is too low as the viscosity?, better, a 5w40, however, newlife is supposed to be better or at least on paper it looks like cos
Unfortunately I can confirm the change of trend that has had the Bardahl on their products (news learned a few days ago and that concerns the course of the past 5 months and that, tragically, is leading to many disappointments) that, IMHO, fell undoubtedly under the qualitative point of view. As of now, I have decided to go on Castrol products for cars (stuff, very good if is based on the line EDGE for the German market), on an engine that is more? driven, going to Motul Competition or ProRace Industry, the latter company, that demand can? also produce oil, made "specific" prices, however, acceptable.
Garret, in addition to the oil consumption, I could you give some information about possible schiumosit? in the phase of removal of the oil bardahl exhausted from your 5er and the eventual temperature of the oil extracted from your cup? Try to insert a magnet into the container of Bardahl extract and "falla swim": if present, collect the filings, that you will find on the magnet and pesala cos? to make any estimate, even if the top is you have a cap in the cup magnet.
In all of this I was thrilled, c'? a difference on laboratory tests impressive between-lot between last year and the premium products from November 2012 to today. I with the Bardahl I closed seen the drop that I have found is on the product new or used.
franco75
28-05-2013, 15:55
Ok what do you think of the mobil ESP 0W-40 or the newlife ESP 0W-40.
Which one ? better?
tested on a 530d 2004, I can say that I had the impression that it is much higher than the castrol even if the comparison I
made between edge 5w-30 and mobil 0w-40
Unfortunately I can confirm the change of trend that has had the Bardahl on their products (news learned a few days ago and that concerns the course of the past 5 months and that, tragically, is leading to many disappointments) that, IMHO, fell undoubtedly under the qualitative point of view. As of now, I have decided to go on Castrol products for cars (stuff, very good if is based on the line EDGE for the German market), on an engine that is more? driven, going to Motul Competition or ProRace Industry, the latter company, that demand can? also produce oil, made "specific" prices, however, acceptable.
Garret, in addition to the oil consumption, I could you give some information about possible schiumosit? in the phase of removal of the oil bardahl exhausted from your 5er and the eventual temperature of the oil extracted from your cup? Try to insert a magnet into the container of Bardahl extract and "falla swim": if present, collect the filings, that you will find on the magnet and pesala cos? to make any estimate, even if the top is you have a cap in the cup magnet.
In all of this I was thrilled, c'? a difference on laboratory tests impressive between-lot between last year and the premium products from November 2012 to today. I with the Bardahl I closed seen the drop that I have found is on the product new or used.
proceed? to do everything in detail, these days I get the pakelo krypton with specification c3 and proveder? the gearbox on mine, on the fiesta tdci to my brother and on the evo of my father, resumed? feedback is detailed and thorough for each vehicle of the family to be of help to all users of the forum
MultiBravo
28-05-2013, 20:17
Also I will the next time I go to Pakelo!
MultiBravo
03-06-2013, 22:53
Behold, I was able to get the data sheet for the bardahl technos C60 exceed 5W30:
viscosity? 40?C ------ 74.4 cSt
viscosity? 100?C ------ 12.4 cSt
density? 15?C ------ 0.852 Kg/l
index of viscosity? ------ 166
point infiammabilit? ------ 200?C
pour point ------- <-33?C
T. B. N.------- 5.9 (mg K OH/g)
there was everything in the table posted by me ;-)
MultiBravo
04-06-2013, 13:20
You put in the 5w40, I 5w30.. I can't find the 5w30.. do you have any other attachments or in the first post that I have not seen?
if you read everything you can find that the 5w30 should be good only for cold countries in view of its poor reliability? at high temperatures, I'd recommend you to let miss bardahl, better not to risk
MultiBravo
04-06-2013, 19:08
Ok, thanks for the advice..
It is true that the advent of the 5W30, there have been problems in engines "old", but if a motor ? designed for 5W30 should not have any problems..
They say it is to reduce fuel consumption.. think of the parent companies that assemble 0W30, pure water..
the houses adopt an oil rather than another are on the basis of commercial contracts and sponsorship, the quality? is put on the second floor, almost always, and then happen the damage, turbines, jumping, noisy valves and fouling the internal, I can tell you from experience and from information received from the guys working in conce ;-)
lukemon79
06-06-2013, 13:45
I for my leon 2.0 tdi 140 hp injector pump use an oil with a specific 505.01 and the additive with boron nitride, hexagonal 1.5 microns. I have noticed that in this way, compared to castrol edge, the motor is spinning round and I blows the turbine at low speeds. The council.
andrew64
29-07-2013, 15:56
use mobil 1 5 - 30 and I am fine
dariuccio
31-07-2013, 22:20
I use shell and wouldn't trade it with anyone else, after 20 000 km ? still dense and well I with the throttle I go heavy.
another good oil to me ? fucks but I never found my parts
MultiBravo
01-08-2013, 13:08
That gradation and version of the shell?
I am in the workshop using both a Shell,erg,elf, ip, and total+mobil from 10w40 5w40 5w30 0w30 but the important ? replace the oil after about a year and would not recommend to leave it for 2 years, as they say, some of the houses
romeo156
04-08-2013, 11:50
I for my alfa 1.9 jtd 110 hp use Mobil 1 0-40 new life and lasts longer? compared to the others that I put before the "castrol magnatec's" etc., now I am fine additive I have used it only once liqui moli ceratec and is renewed every 50000 km I recommend it to all...hello
the best Castrol 10/60 Sport :)
mikyrace82
24-08-2013, 23:52
I only use bardhal xtc
I am in the workshop using both a Shell,erg,elf, ip, and total+mobil from 10w40 5w40 5w30 0w30 but the important ? replace the oil after about a year and would not recommend to leave it for 2 years, as they say, some of the houses
Good brands and good advice for the exchange of oils degrade easily
I personally do not sequo a constant line depends on the conditions of guide the type of machine etc etc ....let's say that in principle, if not exceed the 10,000 miles per year, the board of sotituirlo the same even why? the oil undergoes the thermal shock...then to the top of the' c'? there are so many usually prefer the castrol from 10/40 5/40 5/30 ? 0/30.
dantesfx
02-09-2013, 18:26
Motul 5/40
I forgot, no additive.
I have always left a p? puzzled for on-road use.
lukemon79
03-09-2013, 11:23
Okay, no additive. Then buy the oil bardhal and the ec has already? inside... Not ? the same?
I use the oil recommended by the manufacturer for my bravo 1.9 with the dpf.
selenia SELENIA WR P.E. 5-30 about 14€ per litre.
every year, the exchange (regardless of mileage).
mobil super 3000 5W40 for Renault clio 1.5 dci, even why? shades different according to me do not go very well in this engine, I think this is the best compromise, however, I think mobil ? the number 1 without additives.
Good choice the 5W40 on that engine, certainly better than the 5W30 that put in so many; at least cos? not contribute to the premature wear of the bushings, the defect is not recognized, but the real, of that engine!
I ask to the admin, you can't? put at the beginning of the Tread a table of the survey with the brands, and the number of votes with the percentuuali??
so we can pull the money..and understand the brands and the types pi? used??
It seems to me a necessary thing to do no? even useful: even if you all prefer the Selenia (to name one) do not ? said that this is the best oil for a specific vehicle! The processes produtivi of the oil, regardless of the formulation, affect the characteristics of the lubricant itself, and if a particular engine requires special, doesn't it ? said that in parit? of a commercial product (features ex datasheet) you have two equivalent products! It is for this that would be pi? nice comparison for the class, as for example, the viscosity? the kinematics.
It seems to me a necessary thing to do no? even useful: even if you all prefer the Selenia (to name one) do not ? said that this is the best oil for a specific vehicle! The processes produtivi of the oil, regardless of the formulation, affect the characteristics of the lubricant itself, and if a particular engine requires special, doesn't it ? said that in parit? of a commercial product (features ex datasheet) you have two equivalent products! It is for this that would be pi? nice comparison for the class, as for example, the viscosity? the kinematics.
Regardless of whether it is necessaqrio or less, and with the possible addition of the intrinsic characteristics of an oil, this ? a survey and ? pi? that's correct that there may be a table with the percentages of how many users use this rather than the other Oil.
ergiaguaro
20-09-2013, 21:59
According to me in these years after the tests with all these ,the best oil and the fusch TITAN GT1 PRO C3 5W-30 XTL Lubricant PREMIUM with new technology XTL for cold starts excellent, and with an inexhaustible reserve of performance. For modern passenger cars and light commercial vehicles with or without replacement intervals of time.*Developed for vehicles, BMW, VW, and*MB, equipped with*after-treatment systems and turbo-compressed.
BMW LONGLIFE-04
MB-APPROVAL 229.51
VW 504 00/507 00
Rentals with Vito and viano with 1500000 km real with the same engine and service history made every 30000 km specific has already? all additives to the edge
excellent oil tested by me are the motul 8100 and castrol magnatec's, at the moment I have on the selenia WR 5 40 but back to one of the preceding winter feels a little difference
It seems to me a necessary thing to do no? even useful: even if you all prefer the Selenia (to name one) do not ? said that this is the best oil for a specific vehicle! The processes produtivi of the oil, regardless of the formulation, affect the characteristics of the lubricant itself, and if a particular engine requires special, doesn't it ? said that in parit? of a commercial product (features ex datasheet) you have two equivalent products! It is for this that would be pi? nice comparison for the class, as for example, the viscosity? the kinematics.
I agree with what is written. However, I can say that personally I am very happy with the castro edge sport 0w40 and with the mobil 1 5w50 on the current car (audi tt) as on the previous m3 3.2, I used the castrol 10w60. I can only speak for on-road use.
I've always had a weakness for the TWS, excellent choice IMHO for your (sin), a former companion of transoms :)!
I agree with what is written. However, I can say that personally I am very happy with the castro edge sport 0w40 and with the mobil 1 5w50 on the current car (audi tt) as on the previous m3 3.2, I used the castrol 10w60. I can only speak for on-road use.
Great choice for both the castrol edge sport, but also really good mobil1 obviously for road use and for the best value for money? price I think the motul and castrol are the best
TWS I also use it on the car trackday and they also use various friends on 106 Rally 1.6 L 16v, Clio RS, Etc.Etc... To high temperatures plays very well his duty, IMHO!
I before the choice of the oil and the comparison with the other data at hand and depending on the season, and what I need to do. Very good also the shell'elix ultra racing car driven, and that put a lot of
From personal experience with Mobil 5w-30 ? a good oil for a diesel engine, the castorl edge 5w-30 nn ? good even for condirci l salad on the same line c? the selenia with the bardahl xtc ? a good oil even if personally I'm convinced I've found the noise of tappets and high fuel consumption, especially in the 5w-30 on engines come in both 1.3 and 1.6 petrol engines nn abbandoner? never motul ? really an oil with superb even if since cost nn own the content I use it on my grande punto abarth supersport version of the man-gradation 20w-60 and I am fine
Strange the castrol already starting from magnatec's and a good oil as well as the selenia that on a scale from 1 to 10, and the sufficiency of the ec are, of course, bardhal mobil 1 are higher than motul even more and especially the detachment of motul you see on the motors 2T for? here perhaps not all are aware of it
Some nn are just crap castrol and selenia but the fame of no one has any real confirmation will say only that a friend of mine has a mk3 1.3 mjt had problems with the selenia wr-l winter cold sounded like a tractor for nn speak of the noise, which made the chain in the start-up phase, I recommended to change the oil and use the mobil 5w-30 esp and the result ? was tangible, I say to you only that the average on a 1.3 mjt the chain to 100 thousand km ? to replace him has almost 200 thousand and still ? the original one, and nn c' I have set my hand and the beautiful thing ? that nn f? not even noise in the start-up phase
I personally I have not found it too bad with the selenia or castrol, both on the diesel that the petrol with motul even better, we also say that the problem noise? in the winter the diesel base makes more noise and the oil is there, but it was will always be more noise in the summer, the products, the poor are the agip that I put it on my ex-punto 1.9 jtd and I had to take by force
I do not vanterei of a car that has made 200 thousand km with the same chain of distribution, why? ? was a big risk, regardless of the oil used, the manufacturers guarantee their materials on the basis of a lifetime in km or years, and to overcome them ? a chance why? just once that goes bad and you pay for all the other expenditure of the adjustment of the head, valves, new, etc., the users of this forum I think I know how we need to take care of the cars and their details, since you are running processing.
Well, of course there is a maintenance plan, and should be respected, those who do not, and at his own risk and the oil does not do miracles obvious that a good oil and always better, but if you then break it and cried Greek...me if you can I advise you take the distribution, which is surely better
I do not vanterei of a car that has made 200 thousand km with the same chain of distribution, why? ? was a big risk, regardless of the oil used, the manufacturers guarantee their materials on the basis of a lifetime in km or years, and to overcome them ? a chance why? just once that goes bad and you pay for all the other expenditure of the adjustment of the head, valves, new, etc., the users of this forum I think I know how we need to take care of the cars and their details, since you are running processing.
Bh? 200 thousand Km for a chain on the 1.3 Mjt are too many really, in the case of a chain the years of the vehicle do not matter that which shortens drastically the life of the chain is the lack of maintenance or cheap oils or heavy use of the car, on 1.3 already? happened with the chain jumped 5 teeth on the valves of the breaks, the damage it creates, however breaks the rocker arms and lifters for the price of 450 euro only these two components
To me ? happened addiritture that a customer came to make a ticket, I alerted him that it was better to postpone it due to the raised noise of the catenae alerted him that if they could incur a problem, it was at his own risk and danger, but he insisted well, proceed with the cutting and the beff? ? was that I proceed with the start-up, the machine goes into motion to the minimum l I left a 10 min on the bike at least turn off the I'm going to put in motion, and nn ? game pi? you had to see the face of the owner
and however, as far as regards the duration of the straps in lieu of a bit prior to when ? racocmandato from the house or at the most, I have reached the mileage before the 4 years instead of the chains ? tt another thing no one ever changes except problems or noise I was working in a mercedes, and nn it was rare to see cars with 500 thousand km and even more? with the chain still original and in perfect condition without any kind of noise to me ? stuck with a s-class 500 5000cc v8 with 900 thousand miles and with the exception of coupons, candles, and belts services nn had never made it certain nothing smoked a p? but he had tt its reasons :)
It also goes a little luck, however, I personally recommend I urge and invite the customer to change the belt/chain that is at least as provided by the manufacturer, if not the first, at least if it is damage I the consciousness ec l I affixed
Precisely, I always respect the deadlines as I prefer to prevent than to cure, and the customer is satisfied then nn all understand us? that says that point is their problem
TTMsport
16-10-2013, 23:08
According to me, the motul v300 is one of the best. If you a passionate and change the oil often and the best lubrication that can give to the engine. If we talk about longlife I have always got on very well with the mobil 1.
I drive petrol driven castrol 10w60 sport edge, as a gradation pi? low instead of motul x-cess 8100 5w40
C? also to say that a lot depends on where it comes from oil, castrol has always suffered from counterfeiting to gogo, for example, that allows the owner of the workshop where the work to me ? false, because after only 10000km stinks and loses a lot to ****llo of the viscosity for the rest of the oils I use for me I take them always at official dealers and never had problems
C? also to say that a lot depends on where it comes from oil, castrol has always suffered from counterfeiting to gogo, for example, that allows the owner of the workshop where the work to me ? false, because after only 10000km stinks and loses a lot to ****llo of the viscosity for the rest of the oils I use for me I take them always at official dealers and never had problems
This ? a nice observation; I can say that many lubricants in the market on unofficial channels or platforms (wholesalers, for instance) ester are counterfeit products! It is important to be careful where you buy it and for this I would start to avoid a lot of (almost all) of the power sellers of eBay or similiari!!!
Me yesterday ? the entrance to a 207 1.6 thp 150 Hp, ? been a month f? in another workshop for the control of the belt distribution, and the response of the mechanical ? was in this machine, the belt does not why? ? chain, the customer? complained of the excessive noise, he told her not to worry it only has 60 thousand Miles you are breaking and why? has not been advanced another tooth on the chain tensioner, moral the car from me ? I arrived with the tow truck, the customer says to me I turned it off then at the time of re-starting does not ? pi? game, I do a diagnosis and see the error of the phase sensor do I control had to and ahim? for him, a broken chain, this is the fault of the cos? early breakup ? due to the oil exhausted, and not of good quality?, c'? to say that ? was very lucky because? for such as you ? stopped the engine and found only the intake valves in 1? starting to open up, and in the 4? the discharge time of closing, this engine does not ? like the 1.3 multijet, this breaks both valve rockers and tappets
TTMsport
17-10-2013, 17:17
Wow this is not knew. But where can I buy the oil to stay really quiet? I ask you experts since I am a private and I'll buy it for me the coupon. Given that now is the time to do it....
I have always purchased from power seller ebay. Then say that in fact was not true of mobil 1?
Usually the big suppliers do not do these things if you never had problems with him continue to buy from him
danielecolantonio
17-10-2013, 18:06
I was on my grande punto 1.3 90hp always selenia wr5w40 I never had a problem, now I recently purchased an alfa romeo giulietta 2.0 140cv I believe that the mountains are the same oil...
TTMsport
17-10-2013, 18:29
Yes, but the thing is, how do I know if the oil and a mobil 1 fully synthetic, rather than another oil 2 money?
Recommended reading for those who want to be a culture in this regard, the article is very well done IMHO :) !!!
franco75
04-11-2013, 23:06
thanks, read in one breath, very interesting :)
angelus.d87
15-12-2013, 08:46
The total synthetic 5/30 with d symbol a5/B5 x ford fiesta 1.4 tdci
blueangel666
23-12-2013, 22:06
On my Scenic 1.9 Dci I have always used ELF 10/40 until I was in Sicily, and the car is not burning nearly anything. Now, here in Bologna, in view of the temperatures, I ? was recommended to 5/40, only that after 5000 Miles, I had to add almost a quart and a half.
Maybe ? too much fluid for my car ?? True ? that has a certain et? and maybe it starts to burn more? oil.
Rimetter? the 10/40 ELF
Roberto_Bmw
10-01-2014, 22:34
I on all of my machines, those diesel 3.0 l, I have used/use Castrol 5w 30 and additive to the teflon, I have always found good and the motor? ? slightly lowered
...Faith...
11-01-2014, 21:47
I use the bardahl xtc c60 5w40
and I am fine on the jtdm , the selenia that I used before ? nothing in comparison
I use the bardahl xtc c60 5w40
and I am fine on the jtdm , the selenia that I used before ? nothing in comparison
It seems to me nothing short of the minimum bardhal and bardhal of course, the motul okay
On my ex Bravo JTD and on my current Alfa JTDm I have always used a synthetic oil of the ERG 5w40 that reflects the specifics of the house, then every 50\60k Km I do a treatment with the additive teflon. The manual speaks about the oil consumption of the engine in accordance with up to 400 every 1000km but it seems to me a p? exaggerated. Given that between one coupon and another, I happen to have to make a rabbocchino, I have always wondered up to when pu? be considered normal.
megamind
21-01-2014, 15:26
On my ex Bravo JTD and on my current Alfa JTDm I have always used a synthetic oil of the ERG 5w40 that reflects the specifics of the house, then every 50\60k Km I do a treatment with the additive teflon. The manual speaks about the oil consumption of the engine in accordance with up to 400 every 1000km but it seems to me a p? exaggerated. Given that between one coupon and another, I happen to have to make a rabbocchino, I have always wondered up to when pu? be considered normal.
400 grams every 1000 km are a bit tantini. Unless ch? these 1000 km are the result of hours and hours of intense traffic. In this case, let's say that you might as well be understandable consumption cos? high.
unlocker1984
21-01-2014, 15:31
I on the 500 Abarth instead of Selenia I put the Bardahl XTR racing 39,67 10w60, ? a fairy tale even also known that small pat to the minimum ? attutido.
Surely the oil if they do pay, I took a 3-liter 80Euro, considering that I also had a discount.
400 grams every 1000 km are a bit tantini. Unless ch? these 1000 km are the result of hours and hours of intense traffic. In this case, let's say that you might as well be understandable consumption cos? high.
I didn't want to say that my consume all of that oil, it was only a consideration of what is written on the manual. My curiosities? given that there was talk of engine oil ? even if rabboccate something and as well as during the life of the coupon. Personally I ? happened to add about 200\300g in 15000km and I probably would have also been able to avoid it if it were not for the notches on the on-board computer that each time the are them, then when it comes down to a I verify.
megamind
21-01-2014, 19:29
I didn't want to say that my consume all of that oil, it was only a consideration of what is written on the manual. My curiosities? given that there was talk of engine oil ? even if rabboccate something and as well as during the life of the coupon. Personally I ? happened to add about 200\300g in 15000km and I probably would have also been able to avoid it if it were not for the notches on the on-board computer that each time the are them, then when it comes down to a I verify.
I believe that the manual needs to cover in every way, even the extreme cases chess? also departures at very low temperatures, traffic, etc., The consumption of your car seems perfectly normal to me. If you want to be pi? more rational every 15,000 instead? add it the you can directly replace the motor ringrazier
400gr are many every 1000km for sure the oil nn ? of good quality? and ? it is true that the driving style affects oil consumption
I believe that the manual needs to cover in every way, even the extreme cases chess? also departures at very low temperatures, traffic, etc., The consumption of your car seems perfectly normal to me. If you want to be pi? more rational every 15,000 instead? add it the you can directly replace the motor ringrazier?!
I megamind and I add to make coupons every 15000 in the end pays to know people who do the cutting every 30000 moral of the story secci turbine destroyed in the workshop I
I on the 500 Abarth instead of Selenia I put the Bardahl XTR racing 39,67 10w60, ? a fairy tale even also known that small pat to the minimum ? attutido.
Surely the oil if they do pay, I took a 3-liter 80Euro, considering that I also had a discount.
I was on my grande punto abarth use mobil 300v 10w60 with the bardal I was wrong, then you just paid a lot of 80 ? 3 litres ? an exaggeration to consider that the motul I pay him 20 per litre ?d ? another planet compared to the bardhal now ? state sputtanato
I believe that the manual needs to cover in every way, even the extreme cases chess? also departures at very low temperatures, traffic, etc., The consumption of your car seems perfectly normal to me. If you want to be pi? more rational every 15,000 instead? add it the you can directly replace the motor ringrazier?!
In fact ? from the time that with the ESM I set the threshold inspection at 15000Km, and it originally was 20000Km, which according to me are already? many if not too many.
400gr are many every 1000km for sure the oil nn ? of good quality? and ? it is true that the driving style affects oil consumption
franco75
22-01-2014, 12:03
Never done rabocchi both on the Bmw 530d is on the Audi 3.0 tdi, all with over 180,000 miles but I think that is the fault of the management of fap that is drawing a bit of diesel in the cup. Oil change every 25000 km.
I just topping up the transmission directly every 10000km about
Riccardo#28
30-01-2014, 09:14
I use bardahl xtc c60 10w40 with sintoflon and change it every 10000km on the fiat 1.6 mjt and 1.3 mjt.
The sintoflon in the exchange ? made to feel very much then I have used it also in the engine. The next change I try to additive you with ceramic power liquid
Matty23p
04-02-2014, 19:44
franco75
04-02-2014, 20:10
Even the Castrol does damage? Also, I don't like so much but even to argue that the face of damage :confused:
Matty23p
04-02-2014, 20:41
Watch franco a friend of mine ? went to map the drive from a prepared conosciuttissimo in all of italy, I prefer not to name, and I tell you that there was a car broken x because of the castrol...another guy I met at a track day he said I removed the original ke was castrol ? coming already? a jam ahaah then I advise against it strongly...
Riccardo#28
05-02-2014, 09:41
I with the sintoflon I have always found good, just don't expect miracles... in the end ? teflon and is doing what he can. has helped me a lot in exchange of a bravo 1.6 mjt that of a delta with the same engine.
in the engine of a ktm 690 sm has allowed me to do 2k miles without drinking a drop of oil, which is usually the kappa is, even if a little :)
Matty23p
05-02-2014, 12:57
Understood, the oil I cambiavi with the same interevalli with sintoflon?? Thanks :) ;)
Riccardo#28
05-02-2014, 15:20
You, on the diesel I keep a MAXIMUM of 10k km
Matty23p
05-02-2014, 20:48
understood thanks, I maximum 15k I make them on all the cars of the house, my to 10K ;) :)
in fact, as I said, the oils are all treated, it is necessary to know well the characteristics no matter the brand, the bardahl of which you speak ? was the first ever to use an additive anti-friction that ? a separator made of metals, a molecule used in the engines in avviazione I can testify in the 90's and was made a test in mugello with a bike 10 laps with this oil after you ? downloaded everything and without oil cha made the same trip the cio? 51 km.
I agree fully!!!
Riccardo#28
12-02-2014, 17:15
In that sense, separation of metals? ? fullerene, a molecule consisting of 60 carbon atoms linked through "rings" to form a pentagonal or hexagonal.. As if it were a soccer ball
And a good oil the magnatec's
Good morning to all.
I recently got a Qashqai 2.0 dci 2008, with 85,000 KM and live with the nightmare that you can merge from time to time because of the bushings...
My old 156 with 185.000 KM has never given me the concern why? I have always done the oil change every 10-12.000 KM.
After 120,000 I discovered the sintoflon, and I had the full treatment (cleaning the injectors, engine wash, protector + additive oil change) and I have found great benefits.
My mechanic, he discouraged the use of these additives, adding that in the past had seized 2 engines with a treatment of the ceramic.
On the net I noticed that speak very well of the products BLUECHEM; in particular, the system for cleaning the engine that, unlike other melt so "molecular" the sludge.
Has anyone had any experiences in this regard?
Praticsmente additives x clean the engine are harmful x the engine...
Instead, the antifriction treatment no
nasone147
22-04-2014, 14:12
I regret to tell you that whatever additive you use, not porr? remedy the defect very well-known of these cars!the only advice I can give you to do the coupons at home mother..cos? at 100k km pu? maybe you change them under warranty the bushings!at least in my part cos? it works! ; )
Good morning to all.
I recently got a Qashqai 2.0 dci 2008, with 85,000 KM and live with the nightmare that you can merge from time to time because of the bushings...
My old 156 with 185.000 KM has never given me the concern why? I have always done the oil change every 10-12.000 KM.
After 120,000 I discovered the sintoflon, and I had the full treatment (cleaning the injectors, engine wash, protector + additive oil change) and I have found great benefits.
My mechanic, he discouraged the use of these additives, adding that in the past had seized 2 engines with a treatment of the ceramic.
On the net I noticed that speak very well of the products BLUECHEM; in particular, the system for cleaning the engine that, unlike other melt so "molecular" the sludge.
Has anyone had any experiences in this regard?
From 2008 to now, 6 years have passed I doubt that he will change..
I regret to tell you that whatever additive you use, not porr? remedy the defect very well-known of these cars!the only advice I can give you to do the coupons at home mother..cos? at 100k km pu? maybe you change them under warranty the bushings!at least in my part cos? it works! ; )
Unfortunately ? unthinkable that this may happen, why?:
1: I got it used and I can't guarantee on the service performed in the past;
2: now 6 years have passed.
About the product I was talking about BLUECHEM, carry what ? written:
Cleaner dell?the entire lubrication system of the engine, manual transmissions and differentials. It dissolves in molecular form dirt and deposits throughout the lubrication system, free piston rings and restore compression and remove carbon residues in the upper part of the cylinders, cleans and makes quiet the hydraulic lifters, cleans the steps, channeled that power turbines, and bushings.
Sar? true or are they all products, which serve only to "turn the economy"?
nasone147
23-04-2014, 14:46
All the ones that I know are in his condition! ;-)
I use the motul 8100 and I am fine, oil change every 8 thousand a maximum of 10 thousand, and this is the secret in order not to have problems to the engine, especially if it is a diesel
lightning
28-04-2014, 21:13
Hello all,the topic ? very interesting. I am a mechanic working in a fiat dealer, alfa landrover,working on a new machine to me it is strange that some times the car as the Panda point of LPG or cng, the Giulietta LPG or diesel some times do not come, n'? even at 10000 km that barely touches the dipstick or at the minimum,I ask you as ever if fiat specifications, suited to that type engine, and still eats oil how to explain this thing.
On what basis you choose the engine oil in addition to the specifications.I remember that we in the dealership we only use selenia products for the fiat group, instead of land castrol
In fact, every car brand has its own specific characteristics
lightning
29-04-2014, 20:52
Ok jack it's true that each manufacturer has its own oil for? not ? each machine before making the tag programmed c'? to do the rabocco why? or ? to a minimum or do not touch the dipstick ,and also true that each coupon ? programmed 30000/35000 km which, according to me,there are many, even the ducato fiat ? programmed a45000.
The selenium 20k if the jumps of the coupon becomes sludge and that children's meals yellow.
On what basis will you choose the oil most? suitable for the engine?
cinqueturbo
29-04-2014, 21:21
Ok jack it's true that each manufacturer has its own oil for? not ? each machine before making the tag programmed c'? to do the rabocco why? or ? to a minimum or do not touch the dipstick ,and also true that each coupon ? programmed 30000/35000 km which, according to me,there are many, even the ducato fiat ? programmed a45000.
The selenium 20k if the jumps of the coupon becomes sludge and that children's meals yellow.
On what basis will you choose the oil most? suitable for the engine?
S? peeking at any data bank for cars you will notice that change viscosity? of the oil according to the ambient temperatures..
and gi? the idea inherent in the climate here you are,
then ce the factor of cutting long **** etc., etc.
s? take for example a fiat Panda methane to the fiat of the north pole user? always the 20K as well as in Africa?
Mmmaa...
lightning
29-04-2014, 22:38
Hello,I live in Piacenza, cold winter, hot summer, however, we are talking about old cars that mounts oil 10w40 and a new engine oil 5w40 not ? that we assemble .a 0w30 or 0w50,in any case, they all have problems of consumption?
cinqueturbo
29-04-2014, 22:52
Hello,I live in Piacenza, cold winter, hot summer, however, we are talking about old cars that mounts oil 10w40 and a new engine oil 5w40 not ? that we assemble .a 0w30 or 0w50,in any case, they all have problems of consumption?
not or well understood by all.. excuse will be? the time..
anyway..
in Piacenza, you have the winter cold, summer is hot?
winter uses oil less dense, summer, usa oil pi? dense and see the oil consumption..
lightning
29-04-2014, 23:30
hello guys I include myself in this discussion not to start a new one, I wanted to ask you an opinion on this additive.
It's called
"LeD" - additive gasolo - Biodegradable - lubricant - cleaner.
Composition : mixture of idrocarburu acids of vegetable origin, purified with the addition of solvents, non-toxic, obtained by the distillation of etrolio.
USE ONLY WITHIN THE LIMITS OF THE RECOMMENDED DOSE.
Detergent: 5 Cycles at 5% - to 1Lt. Led/20Lt. Diesel
Lubricant and Detergent Permanent anti-Wear
Cycles to 1% - 1 litre.LeD/100 Lt. Of Diesel Fuel.
Involved in the combustion and temperatures in excess of 160?
The product from alternative and renewable energy sources
Products resisdui combustion CO2 eH2O
Non-toxic by inhalation and if swallowed
Non-volatile at room temperature
Keep Away from sources of heat
Reduces power consumption by up to 10%
100%biodegradable
Non-Flammable
Produced by Magal? s.a.s.
What do you say?? I Test It?
alfonsoh
21-05-2014, 23:39
use for 10 years, products barthdal and they have never failed me
giuseppeturbo
24-05-2014, 20:38
to be honest, using many types of olive oil that I always look at, and the specification ( acea mb etc etc) but on aditivi work only with a company called protek, and for a long time that we work and has a wide range of products that revolve around the world of engines , and to this day I am fine
flamingsn3Ak3r
24-07-2014, 17:06
I appended to the topic to give my ideas and assumptions:
So I wanted to start immediately which actually? there are oils better and worse? we can also say of course
that there are oils suitable and not suitable. Also I don't want to express opinions on brands and so on since?
after you read what I'm about to tell you will you understand it from you.
When you buy a olive oil, the average user goes to check out the specs that are listed on the packaging
without knowing that in reality? what are the mean, being unaware that there are many and
unknown characteristics that are not reflected in reality? very important.
The oil is divided into 4 categories:
- Mineral: ? the refining base oils, it allows you to have very good parameters combustion but low ****lli lubrication
- Synthetic: are side-by-side to the mineral oil of the chemical PARTICLES that reduce "Achilles heel" of the mineral oil to the detriment of his strengths
- Semi-synthetic: The composition between mineral and synthetic oil increases (the % ? the choice of the manufacturer) with their consequences as mentioned before
- Synthetic: Fully synthetic, its characteristics are inverse to the mineral.
Of course, in the two extremes (Mineral and Synthetic) the first experiments had nothing to do with the results obtained with the passing of the years,
in fact, the first minerals had all the parameters really, really bad (that's why? the breakage of the first vehicle).
Let's start now with the specifications defined, by law, on the packaging, with descriptions:
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers)
Through this classification, allows you to understand "approximately" since the solution is smooth (maximum value 0) or viscous (maximum of 60) at different temperatures (non-operating).
To understand how well does the oil to temperatures outside "low" is given a code (W= winter) next to a value (for example:10, then it becomes 10W)
these values do not indicate the actual temperature, but bens? indicate a range of standardised, calculated on the 3 parameters (not listed on the box and that spiegher? below):
-Pour Point (Slide Show)
-Viscosity? Kinematics (Relative) to 40 C? expressed in cS (CentiStokes) that the other does not ? the time (in Seconds "s"), in which the oil can cover an area (mm^2)
-Index of Viscosity?
To understand how it behaves and the oil to outside temperatures "High" are not placed initials, and then will be? to display a value such as: 30, 40 etc
The value of "hot" ? same as "cold" does not indicate the actual temperature, but a range of standardised, calculated on 3 parameters:
-Flash Point (the Point of infiammabilit?)
-Viscosity? Dynamic at 100 C? expressed in cP (CentiPoise), which is the quantity? (grams "g"), in which the oil can cover an area (cm^2)
-Index of Viscosity?
There are 2 main categories of the classification SAE:
-Unigradi (Ex: 5W, 15W, 40[W], etc.) used until the late '50's/'60's and is still used in races, drag;
-Multigradi (E.g. 0W-30, 10W-40) these have taken over since? that can be used throughout the year
Really?
For those who, like me ? interested, passionate, and has studied a bit in the field, when reading the labels is to laugh.
Since? the classification SAE serves only to summarize all the characteristics of the oils, and rightly so, for people who don't know what the deal is
not knowing that in most of the times seem really made the case, and I explain the why?:
Reading the datasheets (assuming that to be true, but by giving us a bit of "tara") some times I have come across
in oils with ****llo SAE lower (E.G. 15W-40) were much more? performing one of ****l higher (EG:10W-40),
therefore, when a manufacturer provides a certain gradation not ? absolutely true that taking a gradation
lower you risk of ruining the engine, on the contrary can? happen to get one of the highest quality, so even by this factor
you can't figure out if the manufacturer creates a lot of oil pi? "performance" with gradations pi? low (nothing prohibits the contrast and/or with oils and top of the range
do not get results much more? "consistent/best" with the brand previously compared).
Of course, as I said at the beginning there ? a distinction between oils suitable, since? if a manufacturer provides that for your vehicle, the oil for the hot areas
must be a 15W-50 and the cold zones a 5W-30 and you are in Canada, where the temperature drops well below -30 C? and you want to use the oil prescribed
from the house...well I would be a lot of questions to use a 5W-30, I informerei rather on his "Pour Point", no? not been too far behind to what is prescribed, but
on what ? really suitable or not. One important thing ? use for the entire life of the engine, the usual oil, why? if any change were to be changed is the viscosity? that the quality?
the life of the engine caler? dramatically...and the avr? way to prove this to you more? next. Another consideration ? that an oil with a differential viscosity? too high does not really
his work why? its characteristics would tend to be too much different then a lot "fragile".
The API (American Petroleum Institute)
This classification ? one of the most? "true" and pi? severe, it provides a test to evaluate the quality? oil in the field of resistive chemical/Tax, additives, and other parameters.
To understand if you're taking an oil quality? you must interpret the classification:
First of all, the classification is divided into 2 parts consist of 2 letters let's take an example:
API SL/CF in this case (the pi? full) we have a oil ? prepared for 2 types of vehicles, why? the "S" indicates that ? suitable for Petrol engines
instead of "C" indicates that ? suitable for Diesel engines the second letter indicates the ****highest quality for Petrol engines (S) go from "A"(now obsolete)
the "N" the best for now; instead, for the Diesel classification ? pi? complex since? you go from A (now obsolete)
the "I" with various variants on some of the classifications that indicate a particular application type marine engines.
Another letter with their respective features ? the "T"? specification for two-stroke gasoline and as quality? we arrived to a standard now unified by a few decades.
ACEA (Association of European Automobile Manufacturers) ? the "competitor" API, it provides a breakdown of the categories of vehicles, namely:
For Gasoline engines use the letter "A" followed by a number ranging from 1 up to 5
A1= Fuel Economy
A2= Obsolete
A3= High Performance
A4= For Future use
A5= Fuel Economy and High Performance
For the light Diesel Engines (passenger cars) uses the letter B:
B1= Fuel Economy
B2= Obsolete
B3= High Performance (Indirect Injection)
B4= High Performance (Direct Injection)
B5= Fuel Economy and High Performance (Both Injections)
For engines with DPF/CAT/DPF and then with post-treatment of emissions the letter "C"
C1= Fuel Economy and high performance engines that require an oil with a low viscosity?
C2= Fuel Economy and high performance
C3= High Performance
C4= High Performance Protective (HTHS>3,5 spiegher? following this parameter)
For Heavy duty Diesel engines (Trucks), letter And
E1= Obsolete
E2= Medium Performance
E3= Euro II
E4= Euro II and III Semisint/sint longlife
E5= Euro III Mineral
E6= Euro IV Semisint/Sint longlife
E7= Euro IV Mineral
JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization)
This, according to me, ? the pi? "useless", it ? present in oils for motorcycles, the classification
provides that in these oils are addtivi that break down the additives "sliding" to not slip the clutch in an oil bath. This additive ? been inserted after the classification API SG.
The quality? is expressed by the name, BUT in which the inside covers the MA1(the worst effect of anti-friction) and MA2(best effect of anti-friction),
so the order of quality ? the following MA>MA2>MA1.
Really?:
Why? at the beginning I said that ? useless? well debunk each myth. There are various strands of thought:
- C'? who says that bikes should only be used in the oil for motorcycles with classification JASO and not ? can use oils for cars, why? the performance is higher (rpm, hp, etc..)
- C'? those who claim that the oil for motorcycles go well on the car
Then the correct answer ?: The oil for the car is fine even on the motorcycles provided that it meets certain characteristics, of course.
As explained before, the problem of the clutches in an oil bath ? slippage due to the presence of the anti-friction additives, which, however, are not present before classification
SH. These friction modifiers are not present in the automotive oils with the classification ACEA A3, unfortunately this data ? a lot of hidden just to allow the trade to sell
the oil for motorcycles and even at a price really high! You should avoid oils with friction modifiers and high differential viscosity? (example 5W50 or 10W60). The presence on the latter of high quantity? polymer linear organic (see Additives), sensitive to the actions of cutting caused by the gears, can result in excessive variations of the viscosity? during the use.
Now someone storcer? the nose why? I have not confirmed the factor "performance" well then I ask you in front of a question:
Do you think a Mazda RX8 that oil goes there? eheh oil by machine or by bike? after all ? a engine a little "complex" since it has almost 10K rpm
and a power cubic capacity is certainly superior to a bike, and the oil bath clutch. However, there must be (at last update) the 10w-50 as recommended by the house.
There are a variety of other classifications, CCMM, for example, but are not pi? used.
flamingsn3Ak3r
24-07-2014, 17:07
INTERNATIONAL MANUFACTURERS ' SPECIFICATIONS ( TAKEN FROM THE SITE SELENIA)
Next to the specifications issued by international organisations and manufacturers ' associations, with the aim? to standardise the minimum requirements to which a lubricant must comply with to be able to be used without problems on different engines, there are specifications issued by individual manufacturers. They define the particular characteristics that a lubricant must possess in order to be considered ideal for a particular type of engine. It is an authorisation given by the manufacturer to the manufacturer of the lubricant, to be able to boast a product of an approval mark, which makes it particularly suitable for cars of a given brand.
The pi? well-known are definitely the specifications issued by Volkswagen, Mercedes Benz, BMW, FIAT, GM.
VOLKSWAGEN SPECIFICATIONS
The specifications laid down by Volkswagen, attesting to the specific quality? an engine oil that make it
suitable for use on cars are divided into three large groups:
I. Specifications for dual lubricants
500.00 for petrol engines and diesel NA
501.01 for petrol engines and diesel NA
Require an oil change every 15,000 KM but are now obsolete because? provided only for approved oils prior to March 1997
II. Specifications for lubricants for petrol engines
502.00 for gasoline engines, high-performance, change every 15,000 km
503.00 for petrol engines with a range of extended exchange (30,000 km),low viscosity?
503.01 for petrol engines with a range of extended exchange only AUDI
504.00 for gasoline engines, Euro IV
III. Specifications for lubricants for diesel engines
505.00 diesel engine with intercooler, oil change every 15,000 km
505.01 for diesel engines of cars including engines of the new generation, with a single injector pump, change every 15,000 km
506.00 for diesel engines of cars, with prolonged oil change interval over 50,000 km, not for use on engines with single injector pump. The change is indicated by the electronic service indicator (WIV).
506.01 similar to 506.00, with increased protection against wear, change to 50,000 km, for all diesel engines. It is the specification of long-life oil for AUDI A2 1.4 TDI with engine with single injector pump. Should not be used where required, the VW specifications 503.00/506.00/505.01/505.00/502.00.
507.00 for diesel engines Euro IV
SPECIFICATIONS MERCEDES BENZ
The name of the MB specifications derived from the schema of the Bluebook Mercedes, divided into numbered paragraphs and pages. It is used by dealers to identify the products certified by the manufacturer and their correct application on the engines.
229.1 For petrol and diesel engines. Quality? minimum required ACEA A2/B2 with additional limits on the engine.
229.3 For petrol and diesel engines. Quality? minimum required ACEA A3 / B3 / B4, MB 229.1. Pu? only certify oils 0/ 5-W-x. Are provided for additional tests on DB engines.
229.31 For new generation diesel engines. For lubricants with features mid SAPS and SAE 5W-30 grade.
229.5 Exchange up to 50,000 KM. Quality? minimum required ACEA A3 / B3 / B4. Pu? only certify oils 0/5 /l0 W-30 /40/50. You are using for the new MB cars with ASSYST system (based on number of starts, operating time of the engine, mileage and type of lubricant).
229.51 for gasoline and diesel engines of the new generation. For lubricants with features mid SAPS and SAE 5W-30 grade.
BMW SPECIFICATIONS
The BMW specifications are mostly known as "Long Life". There are three categories of products, passing certain tests, can be reach-specific oil change interval.
"BMW Special Oils," 1996
The minimum requirement ? ACEA A3/B3. You add the test M42 required to allow use all year product grade 0W/5W/10W - x.
"BMW Long Life Oils," 1998
The minimum requirement ? A3/B3 and ? can be combined with the following viscosimetric grades: 0W/5W/10W-30/40. The oils that pass the test M44, allow extended change intervals, up to 20,000 Km or two years.
"BMW Long Life" 2001
The minimum requirement ? ACEA A3/B3 and the viscosimetric grades that can indicate this specification are 0W/5W/10W-30/40. The test M44 in the new version, provides oil change intervals of up to 20/40.000 or two years. It is mandatory for new cars that require Long Life 01 and pu? replace the previous ones.
"BMW Long Life" 2004
The minimum requirement ? ACEA A3 and BMW Long Life 2001. Applicable to lubricants of the new generation with high volatilit? and average values of sulphated ash, sulphur and phosphorus.
QUALIFICATIONS POWER TRAIN TECHNOLOGIES/ FIAT GROUP
FIAT 9.55535-G1 qualification for lubricants for petrol engines with fuel economy and extended exchange.
FIAT 9.55535-G2 qualification for lubricants for petrol engines with standard features.
FIAT 9.55535-H2 qualification for lubricants for gasoline engines, high performance, and lengthening of the interval exchange.
FIAT 9.55535-H3 qualification for lubricants and high-performance petrol engines.
FIAT 9.55535-D2 qualification for lubricants for Diesel engines, with standard features.
FIAT 9.55535-M2 qualification for lubricants for gasoline engines and Diesel engines with extended drain.
FIAT 9.55535-N2 qualification for lubricants for gasoline engines and Diesel engines with optimized features for turbochargers, high temperatures, and lengthening of the interval exchange.
FIAT 9.55535-S1 qualification for lubricants for Diesel engines with systems of post-treatment of exhaust gas, with fuel economy and extended exchange.
FIAT 9.55535-S2 qualification for lubricants for petrol engines with systems of post-treatment of exhaust gases, with lengthening of the interval exchange.
Define the characteristics to be complied with by the lubricants used in engines with Otto and Diesel cycle for the first filling and during exercise. The norm ? consisting of a series of tests in the laboratory and on the engine to assess the ****th e performance of the lubricants.
The laboratory tests qualify the lubricant evaluating the viscosity?, the point of cold flow,the tendency to produce foam, the corrosion on the copper foil, the behavior of the tires and the oxidation resistance.
The engine tests assess, on some engines, both diesel and gasoline, which are representative of the pi? advanced technologies of Fiat Auto, the performance of lubricants in terms of sticking rings, piston deposits, wear and also oil consumption.
The lubricants that exceed the qualification, are marked with an Approval number.
GM (OPEL)SPECIFICATIONS
The manufacturer requires for all vehicles, european specification ACEA A3-98, B3-98 with different viscosimetric grades SAE 0/5/10 W - 30/40 with oil change at 15k km or 1 year with Euro 2 engines (built-cio? before 2001) and 30 thousand miles or 1 year with Euro 3 engines.
Opel also introduced in 2002, the Opel Long Life Service Oils (starting from the Vectra, model year (2002), a variable oil change interval that can? reach 30 thousand km, or 2 years for petrol engines (specification GM-LL-B-025) and 50 thousand km, or 2 years for diesel engines 2.0 and 2.2 DTI(GM-LL-A-025).
The cars that use the Opel Long Life Service Oils must exceed the specifications ACEA A3, B3, B4, and the evidence Opel B040 2095 HTHS >2.9 and B040 2098 for lubricants with HTHS >3.5.
This system of qualification of lubricants ? been developed with the support of independent German laboratories that perform engine tests (for wear, deposits, and F. E.), or in the wearing, using Opel's procedures.
flamingsn3Ak3r
24-07-2014, 17:07
I WOULD SAY NOW MOVING ON TO WHAT IS NOT WRITTEN ON THE LABELS
At the beginning of the article I talked about some of the very important parameters, flash point, pour point, etc., but what are these strangers? andiamoli to analyze:
-Viscosity? Kinematics (Relative) to 40 C?: expressed in cS (CentiStokes) that the other does not ? the time (in Seconds "s"), in which the oil can cover an area (mm^2), the lower ? the value
and before the oil gets to lubricate the upper parts of the engine as the valves, especially those of the modern cars that are with hydraulic lifters, (in fact, cold-make noise)
-Viscosity? Dynamic at 100 C?: expressed in cP (CentiPoise), which is the quantity? (grams "g"), in which the oil can cover an area (cm^2)? the value
the more the engine is protected at high temperatures (very IMPORTANT)? this data is worth a lot less of the ratio of HTHS
-Index of Viscosity?: It is based on the two parameters above, pi? ? high and pi? the oil ? of excellent quality? and is resistant to various stress etc..
-HTHS (High Temperature, High Shear): ? a most important value, it describes the thickness of the oil, or more? the oil has a thick film pi? ? a protective oil
less ? often and less protects. The starting value ? 3.5 this means that a value of pi? high of 3.5 ? considered to be very protective to below that threshold
it is considered an oil and Fuel economy, this is because? a film less often, sliding bodies more? easily in spite of the protection, and vice versa, in thick films,
the cio? a thick film protects the pi? but does consume even more?. Personal opinion I prefer to have a HTHS value of pi? the top for? not too much ca. 4.1 to the maximum.
Of course, a high HTHS does it mean ? an oil-resistant "moments of cutting"
-Pour Point (Scroll): indicates the temperature at which the oil begins to crystallize, is called the parameter of the pumping, which is important for those who live in the areas really cold)
-Flash Point (the Point of infiammabilit?): Indicates the temperature at which the oil ignites, (important value for those vehicles turbocompresse, especially heavily processed)
-Sulphated ash (% per gram): a low value indicates a combustion ir? clean (for the car, the maximum value of 1.5% for the motorcycle 1,1/1,2%)
-Longlife: less Presence of detergent additives, negative fact about race cars
There are many other parameters have an influence on the very bottom.
LET US NOW TURN TO THE VARIOUS ADDITIVES PRESENT IN THE OIL:
Type: Improvers of the index of viscosity?
Chemical nature: linear Polymers of organic compounds.
Function: to Make the viscosity? oil is less sensitive to temperature variations.
Action: polymers, inserted in a base oil, raise somewhat the viscosity? hot and only cold. Therefore, the oil is admixed with an index improver has a viscosity curve?-temperature less inclined and moved to a p? pi? at the top of the curve of the base oil.
Type: Detergent
Nature chemistry: Compounds and metal-containing organic elements such as calcium, sulphur, phosphorus, zinc, etc.
Function: Prevents the formation of "deposit" on the organs of metal, in the presence of high temperatures.
Action: The oxidation products as they are formed are rendered soluble or kept in suspension in the oil, while the particles of soot or coal are covered with these additives and made harmless.
Type: Dispersants.
Nature chemistry: Compounds, metal-organic or polymeric materials, not of metal.
Function: Press the "sludge" mushy finely dispersed in the oil.
Action: Prevent the agglomeration of the particles, contaminants in the oil, and consequently the formation of sludge mushy.
Type: Improvers pour point.
The chemical nature of organic Compounds in complex paraffinic-naphthenic.
Purpose: to Lower the temperature at which the oil loses its smoothness.
Action: Act on the crystals of paraffin, which are formed in the oil for cooling; by surrounding them, they slow down the formation of the crystal lattice, which prevents the oil to flow.
Type: Antioxidants.
The chemical nature of organic Compounds such as phenols or amines, sulfur-containing, phosphorus -, nitrogen -, barium, zinc, etc.
Function: Prevent the incorporation of oxygen in the oil.
Action: React chemically with the oxygen, even before this attack the oil, forming harmless compounds soluble in the oil.
Type: anti-Corrosive and anti-rust.
Chemical nature: complex organic Compounds containing sulphur, phosphorus, nitrogen, etc.,
Function: Prevent corrosive attack of the metal alloy.
Action: Prevent the development of acidic substances, or to form protective layers on the metal surfaces.
Type: untuosit?.
The chemical nature of organic Compounds oxygen-containing polar groups.
Function: Reduce the coefficient of friction between the moving parts in conditions of imperfect lubrication.
Action: Due to the effect of "polar" the oil molecules are arranged perpendicular to the metal surface anchoring itself firmly and compensating in this way the small lubrication services
Type: Anti-Wear Additives.
Chemical nature: Tricresilfosfato, ditiofosfato zinc etc.
Function: Reduce the wear and tear on the mechanical.
Action: Melt at relatively low temperature filling and ****llando, for subsequent solidification, the grooves on the metal surfaces so as to improve the contact between the moving parts.
Type: extreme pressures.
Chemical nature: organic Compounds containing sulfur, lead, phosphorus, chlorine, molybdenum, etc.,
Function: Avoid welding and the resulting strappamento between the asperit? the surface of the organs in movement.
Action: React chemically, high temperature, with the asperit? surface of the bodies in movement, forming a locally-substances with a low coefficient of friction and promoting any tranciamenti of the ridges instead? their tear erratic and violent.
Type: Of adhesion?.
Chemical nature: organic Polymers of high molecular weight.
Purpose: to Impart to the oil features anti-drip and splash-proof.
Action: significantly Increase the adhesive power of the oil bodies to be lubricated.
Type: Anti-Foam.
Chemical nature: Polyester, polymers and silicones.
Function: Prevent the formation of stable foam in the oil due to the inclusion of gas.
Action: Reduce the so-called "interfacial tension" between the gas bubbles and the oil, etc? the gas bubbles formed in the oil, which can be grouped in the bubbles of a larger size, they can reach more people? quickly the free surface, dissolving in the air.
Type: Emulsifiers.
Chemical nature: Soaps of fatty acids, sulphonic acids and naphthenic.
Purpose: to Encourage the formation of a stable emulsion oil-water (fluids, cutting, laminating, some additives, anti-rust).
Action: Serve as a link between the water molecules and the molecules of the oil (water and oil, alone, are in fact the liquid is not miscible).
NOTE: some of the additives represent pi? functions: for example, some have properties at the same time? antioxidants, anti-corrosion and anti-wear; others are miglioratrici index pour point, and they have properties? detergents, etc.,
N. B. 2: The use of additives, especially in the oils already? very additives(SI, SL, etc), ? not recommended since? not ? guaranteed really their
compatibility? and efficiency, or, in some cases, the additive can? not emulsionarsi completely in the oil and "set"
creating congestion or compounds that are very hard, which would cause significant damage to the engine, in the case of further
additivamento or also called anti-additivamento the oil could lose its properties? (EX: Oil, without amtiattrito A3 and
eventualamente fuel economy, by inserting an additive anti-friction there would be a heavy loss of the protective film, and then for any premature wear of the organs)
The present here ? for educational purposes only and should not be taken as a guide only and/or as liquid gold, I exempt from any liability
Matty23p
24-07-2014, 23:15
Good explanation ;)
flamingsn3Ak3r
25-07-2014, 10:08
thanks a lot! it took me quite a while to write it.
I hope that this was helpful for those looking to buy
the oil is right for their vehicle.
if there are imprecisazioni or faults please let me know!
Greetings.
Polabarth
20-08-2014, 20:40
Nice guide thank you, I have a 500 Abarth the house requires its oil Abarth 10-50 and change the tutala technix 75-85 that ? a semi-synthetic continuous with these or ? better to go on something better?
flamingsn3Ak3r
20-08-2014, 22:37
Hello, thanks for the response.
If I'm not mistaken, for the abarth use the selenia and/or the v-Max engine oil.
I can not recommend one brand instead of another, but I can tell you that those oils
on a panda 1.2 with 160K miles you have done the cozy atmosphere and super under the cap...do you.
Polabarth
20-08-2014, 22:59
Be the selenia Abarth 10-50 say that ? a shade is hard to find in theory the selenia Abarth ? designed for these engines
flamingsn3Ak3r
22-08-2014, 15:39
For the difficulty? unfortunately, I can say that it's not ? true
at least where I am I, since? asking the oil to a dealer abarth us
then said sincerely, every manufacturer makes a commercial contract with the manufacturer
and later the various tests with the given lubricant, why not ? what if ? abarth ? better,
have only done some tests with that oil, but this does not mean the quality? of the same...
by referring to the lubricants used for the Factory Aprilia, just to give you an example.
I forgot to give you information for the Protection(always selenia).
I can say that c'? better, I don't know how you do it for? reminding palms
the characteristics of the selenia ? too much fluid in comparison to the other oils, I imagine you feel
very soft to the exchange, is it wrong?
Greetings
Polabarth
22-08-2014, 17:51
The change for now ? normal oil specification gl-4plus ? semi-synthetic? I knew of people that put super oils like royal purple, but this has ruined the synchronizers perhaps an alternative ? the castrol
The change for now ? normal protection ? a semi-synthetic specifies gl4+ there are some that have put great oils like royal purple, but have made it out of the sinceonizatori then maybe ? it is better to stay on the prescribed or the Castrol perhaps
flamingsn3Ak3r
22-08-2014, 18:18
if he has broken the sync means that he has put a specific wrong (GL-5) and then as I wrote in the guide, if I'm not mistaken, if you use oils in your home mother is not wrong but do not think it is the top or the pi? suitable (in principle of course)
Polabarth
27-08-2014, 23:46
Then change what you put? The original ? a semi synt sar? so disgusting?
flamingsn3Ak3r
28-08-2014, 22:25
I repeat,
every manufacturer with the conclusion of commercial contracts
it makes it so that with the oil to the life of the vehicle is "guaranteed" even if you should
open a topic.
However, the intervention that I made (mainly for the engine oil) was to understand
what type of lubricant you are using, and as I explained I do not recommend brands, even why?
if I told you that the brand name, the type and price of the ones I use I do not believe such a thing
and I would you to be crazy.
Taking for granted what I said, consider that the protection that uses it ?, according to me, too much fluid.
rodcraft86
29-08-2014, 00:26
this discussion ? that's really interesting, in this regard, I would like some advice from the pi? experts, the substantial differences between oils PAO and hydrocraked, and some thoughts on royal purple, in particular, also the famous specific gl4 and gl5 about oils manual transmission, 75w90 royal is sold as an oil that respects and does not deteriorate so-called soft metals such as brass, for example ? true or ? only a move business?
flamingsn3Ak3r
29-08-2014, 01:12
Hello rodcraft86,
excuse my curiosity? how come you're focused on the oils
PAO and hydrocracked? I ask you this question why? the use
prevalent of these firms ? oriented not on commercial vehicles, but bens?
on the industry, even if I've heard of them (especially in Spain they make wide use).
Palmi (I never had the opportunity to make comparisons with the oils of the usual calibre)
they represent a good solution for those who use heavy vehicles(speaking of engine oil) type:
Wheel loader, Bulldozers, etc.
Absolutely to be avoided, according to me, lubricants, "race" which in my opinion
there have even tried to develop decent one.
To return to the discussion of the specific GL, which of course are not very clear,
I wanted you to understand that the specification that is proposed is not ? dedicated specifically to the changes
but bens? for the gears (obviously, the exchange falls into this category) specification GL-5 is
not appropriate for those transmissions that take the synchronizers
this is because? the motion of the synchronizers ? different (non-hypoid) from the gearbox...you will say, but on race cars
put the "GL-5"...? true, but in the vast majority of the time the changes are not synchronized, or the
crown ? pi? small (the change is not synchronized ? pi? fast..."pi? ? synchronized", then pi? has the teeth on the selector,
pi? ? slow)
rodcraft86
29-08-2014, 19:08
very limited, and then on an exchange that provides for gl4 and absolutely imperative to use an identical specification to the discourse max gear of the royal, they state that goes well as a gl4 that gl5 but I've read some feeds not really positive about the changes that were recommended gl4, you know something about it? can you recommend a good gl4 gear c510 fiat?
flamingsn3Ak3r
29-08-2014, 23:37
I can only say that the Royal Purple has played a lot of
the pumping their bench,
slogan and so on without thinking of a quality control? pi? found
(that's why? many of the flop).
Anyway ? true-the team that wins does not change,
I don't know if you know but the C510 was mounted on the old One Turbo!
rodcraft86
30-08-2014, 00:16
then you tell me that the protection must be good? I ask why? the guy in question complains about gear change is hard from the cold and in the effects ? cos?, the car has 70,000 km now, I changed the oil and filter last week and put the 5w40 in the royal that had taken 2 months ago, according you can? to have problems? the car ? without the dpf and mapped, now we've got this blessed max gear but he asked me if it would be appropriate, I would not let him crumble, the synchronizer, the tutela matryx say that it's okay? the exchange ammorbidir?? sorry for the questions but you are one of the few that has knowledge on the subject
flamingsn3Ak3r
04-09-2014, 12:56
Hello roadcracf86
I'm sorry, I wanted to make you my apologies for a notion
wrong that I gave you.
The PAO and hydrocracked are two types of refining of the oils.
I'm sorry, but I had inutito that you wanted to know the brand
NILS/PAO and Hydrocracked (Spanish firm, not very well known).
Sorry Again
rodcraft86
04-09-2014, 16:44
no problem, a council with regard to the questions above, you can give me?
Renegaded
25-09-2014, 13:01
I was on my PT Cruiser 2.2 190,000 miles I put Motul 10W40. for various additives I don't have experience
Hello. I have a Alfa Gt 150*180 mjtd. After the oil ( selenia ) I tried the castrol edge 5w40 and the car ? changed completely. The engine ? pi? silent, fluid and snappy. I did an oil change a little more? 12k km and I assure you that the oil had turned into yogurt. So, in conclusion, EDGE ? fantastic, but don't go over 10k km. The next exchange prover? for the first time xtc60 even if the specifications on the label ? the upper EDGE. Additives I used 1 time, clean the injectors bardhal. You will upgrade? about my impressions when prover? xtc60. Greetings.
I haven XTC C60 with fullrene and a addidivo american f2-21 nanotecnologies is better the car feels, also you can say that about the other 2 family car a ulysses 2.1 TD pump lucas and fiat punto 1.2 60 gasoline oil of a lower quality type motul 4100 but always with that additive feels that the car goes better...I recommend this additive american f2-21 although of difficult-to-find
Filippo77
03-10-2014, 19:41
In the absolute I find the range Shell the pi? complete and performing in business, I worked with important brands and known as Agip, Castrol, Mobil, Total and Elf (well, all of the trademarks chosen by manufacturers as original equipment) but in the end I stayed on the Shell for the completeness of the range!
cronoprima
07-10-2014, 14:26
to me, the choice of oil depends on the type of engine, diesel or petrol, from the miles that the engine has path, example: a diesel engine with 250000km preferira oil "harder" than a machine fresh; and finally, on the basis of what you want to achieve. I refer back always to the discourse of having owned only petrol cars: fiat coup?, smart roadster brabus, subaru impreza STI and I can tell you that I've tried them all, but the best according to me will always be the royal purple 20w50. nothing to see with bardal or motul. for example, the motul v-competition ? a good oil to use pistaiolo, but according to me it is too full of additives. in the long run when you disassemble an engine, and the residue and differences to the well-known mark. I found it well even with a normal castro edge sinthetic 5w30, but I repeat the shades depend on the seasons, if the machine ? running or not, and what kind of preparations you have. diesel talk of the party ;-)
I was on my 147 JTDm 150cv use Castrol Edge 5w40. Experience on fork lift trucks of known German brand that are fitted with a 1.9 vw turbo manual put the 5w40 but with this oil, and the high temperatures in which the oil fails the most? to lubricate and a couple of engines have sbiellato. Then you ? adopted a classic 15w40 that better protects the engine at high temperatures for? hurts a p? the turbo at low temperatures and at start-up for its ir? high viscosity?. Therefore, in addition to the quality? oil the heat ? very important both for the type of engine that the temperatures at which it works.
Polabarth
06-01-2015, 10:53
Sorry but this is between 5-40 and 15-40 change cold to hot the limit ? equal
You are right, but the 15w40 I think it is pi? protective for a speech additives.
rodcraft86
06-01-2015, 23:02
the number before the w indicates the viscosity? cold while the next, indicates that hot, the 5w40 ? better to cold than the 15w40, hot are the same, if you use oils of low qulit?, the risk of breakage increases
Exact then for the JTD and well-specified that the use of 5w40 ? admitted provided? not with the specific C3 ? suitable for new engines with FAP/DPF, in my opinion ? best the bardhal XTC 60 turbo diesel
rodcraft86
07-01-2015, 22:11
I become suspicious of the oil products in china with bases recycled, I prefer to opt for oils certified and of excellent quality
franco75
09-01-2015, 00:49
You are right, but the 15w40 I think it is pi? protective for a speech additives.
in fact, in marine engines to gasoline that can work for prolonged periods with high load, the mercruiser recommends 20w-40 or the 25w40.
In addition, over time the oil will deteriorate much less, of course we talk about aspirated engines
kawaracing
15-03-2015, 12:24
My opinion on oils depends on the individual characteristics of each motor such as a motor with hydraulic pushers or pushers for pills.
Cars with particle filter need an oil with more precise specifications while other vehicles with less technology is unnecessary
Sirius83
03-04-2015, 12:11
I use in my car MB Vito 108CDI - XADO 10W40. I'm very happy
nmclogandci
06-05-2015, 09:03
on the 1.5 dCi engine from Renault I have not had good results with Castrol magnatec's 10W40 A3 / B4
and one of my prederenza....motoul all of life
anyway, the thing that I do not disgarba is also the bardhal, I also used the stylus and it was a wonder. Cold starts are excellent, and the noise lowered.
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