hi all, what I propose today is not a problem to be solved but the solution.

I have presented in the previous post the problem is to disconnect the battery on the smart forfour 1.5 dci 2006 70cv and the retreat on Friday with a problem with the central locking.

Defect:
the actuators will remain open and the pressure of the button on the remote control or the keys inside, you hear a trigger for the relay, but nothing happens.
In diagnosis, you will not find any problem of any kind. the car was 2 months on the road for workshops various, bodyworkers, elettrauti and mechanical.

Result:
no defect in the diagnosis, there's a block quote of 450€ for the replacement of all the actuators, and another 60€ for the unit of comfort that is behind lacatole of the fuses.

The first thing I verified with independent power supplies all the actuators in response from the connectors on the doors to see if they were shorted, or if the absorption is too high.
The check is done for 2 reasons, the first because I found the fuse N°30 A 16 A (blue) burned that deals with food the actuators and the obd from here the suspicion that one of the actuators was short.
An important aspect to consider and that when the relays click, the system will also measure the absorption and then if one of the closures does not work any closure works.

the first thing to do to solve this problem and to dismantle and open the ecu comfort.
there are 5 relay double and one single....must be dismantled and verified, but not with the tester, should be driven at 12v and the board of connect the bulbs on the contacts to verify the passage of current.

This is because with the multimeter the continuity is perfect, but with the load you will see that the whole another story.
Council to replace them all, and redo the welds on the connector to the comb.

I recommend this work to a user is EXTREMELY EXPERIENCED in welding and knows at least how to test a relay.

I was able to test the ecu on bench for a matter of convenience by powering it on the bench, and simulating the load at the end of the repair before remounting it on the alute.
For this part I prefer not to provide connection diagrams, and extremely gentle and I allowed myself to push myself because I work in electronics and repairs that I do all day.

In conclusion, it happens that with the time it contacts the brass within it you consume, and as in all the relays carbonizing in contact.
From here, the shortcoming of the centralized parzilalmente work, you feel a trigger for the relay, but nothing happens.

This defect, as explained in detail what happens for 2 reasons, the relay is defective, it takes only one, or some actuator is not working that hangs around.

I wanted to share this experience for those who understood a similar defect, and can solve without gorsse expenses or lose your head.

I've put about 2 hours to mapparmi all the cables because I checked the continuity.
Certainly, if I had a wiring diagram there I would have put much less seen, but that would be time lost, I preferred the road with with I come across always.

to test the ecu is the comfort and the relay I put in about an hour.

You could also override the protection of the absorption, and a digital signal impossible to simulate with 2.5 v. I have Not verified if it was a pmw though.

If it can be useful to someone....

Greetings to all.