bought a atten hot air....now I just have to do a little practice.....
I would just like to take a doubt:but to solder with a temperature of 300?...do not risk damage to components near or in the same tab of bakelite?
bought a atten hot air....now I just have to do a little practice.....
I would just like to take a doubt:but to solder with a temperature of 300?...do not risk damage to components near or in the same tab of bakelite?
never had problems, even in the 450?..
but it always depends on what you need to do and where..
place case you need to unsolder an e2prom and 300? we put 5 minutes, it's not better to heat it up to 450? in 10 seconds?
ok you're right....
they are only doubts that I have why? I would like to begin to do a bit of practice is to solder and desolder the eeprom is the resistance in the boot.....I would like to learn to do a bit of everything....
ok thank you....for? I still don't know what the flux.....I see that you use with the stylus, especially....but then it still leaves a sticky residue....trichloroethylene causes damage if the past with a brush?
then I have lost faith:having flux and tin the wire I tried to make my first welding station, on the air.....what do you think?
sure it takes a steady hand and a great view...but it seems to me very simple....
Last edited by leandro89; 19-01-2014 at 16:19
the flux serves to thin the pond... and it also lowers the melting point.Originally Written by ducati83
when you weld rod is not used, why? almost all of the alloys of tin, gi? inside.. but in the process of welding evaporates.. so to unsolder ? need to add more.
if, instead, balances, hot air, is also used in solder, why? prevents you from joining pin close.
important thing ? pay attention to the steam that generates the flux.. they are dangerous. I always work under a fume hood
I just don't like..
that work should be done with a welder normal, and tin, 0.5 mm, and just wanting to do a job, glossy, solder paste normal..
to unsolder welder normal and a good sucking pond..
what you and served hot air station?
ok thank you you have been a pi? good cinqueturbo(joke)....
oh god, I have tried both with the stylus and with the hot air and the second I found it much more? simple....sar? the little experience....
for? I have to ask you one thing:on some of the schedule I saw that I couldn't solder...tin is not attacked...for example, the schedule bdm have been very difficult to weld with the tips in the spring the pond is not attacked on the holes in the metal, but only on the tip of the test leads as ever?
then I used the soldering iron and I have welded with the wire of the pond....but the sticky residue of the flux how do I remove?
if the pitch you need to find sifficolt? weld-on ? pure copper, might be a bit of oxide... or sometimes, it could be a little bit of paint ptrottetiva...
or abradi a little, very lightly to the surface, or insist a little more? with the welder... in this case, a bit of flux helps.
for the removal of the resin that leaves the flux, you can use specific products "flux remover" and you find it.. otherwise, a little alcohol.. but you have to insist on more?
ok.
then nothing trichloroethylene as I read around the internet....
for? I have to tell you that I tried to scrape slightly the part that I couldn't weld but nada....I had to heat the pond and quickly with a pair of tweezers to pull the ferrule to join the pond between the hole and the ferrule carrying the same to the equal of the e xxx....I don't know if I explained it
mmm I understand.. have you tried to stagnate before the point? and then solder
Write permission
Quote