I saw the video thanks, but I still have to clarify some things.
so with this dough, just put them on top and pass the hot air, right? or you can spend with the soldering?
that goes with the yellow tip , cos'? ?
it's good for soldering the temperature of 340 degrees with the soldering?
Look, I don't think there is a precise rule, or fixed,Originally Written by michele30
even why? the melting point of the pond it also depends on where the hotel is located and the size of the component,
s? and a micro you take a moment to 350? but s? and a A29F you put in 30-40 seconds s? not even more?..
it is exactly... as I said before.. it always depends on what you need to unsolder or weld.. I would do a little bit of experience on some of the electronic card is old.. make a bit of practice
I.. I also to test the soldering station dissaldante or are familiar with the old Stereo-DVD-and-TV
thanks raga.
To unsolder not ? a problem, I have already done tests in the desoldering hot air ? fast, I just wanted to see if there was a rule for the temperature to be set, I do 300 , but I can also increase to 350, if you tell me so.
The problem ? welding
once unsoldered , the pitch where es there goes the e2p 8-pin , to resolder what are the steps to do this?
wipe the pitch with the soldering tool or do I need to type the flux and then move on with the soldering?
the solder paste that uses you Audi sp how to use it?
as in the video? supports the micro or e2p that is, the top put this paste on the steps with the soldering tool from side to side, right?
once you are finished with what to clean?
on this, I can give a bit of contributions having gained a bit of experience in the assembly of electronic cards
.. the temperature depends on the component.. even the manufacturers of integrated smd, often in the attached datasheet is the curve of the optimum welding to use.
in general, if there are components that are particularly sensitive, for desoldering, I use hot air station, with air at about 300 ?C / 320.
as a first step, the flux, an abundant, then warm it with hot air, and as soon as the pond ? time (matter of seconds) the remove.
the area, wipe it clean with a copper braid, and a normal soldering iron stylus.
finally, for the cleaning of the residues of the flux, use an alcohol.. I don't remember exactly the name of the product.
for soldering of smd components, using two techniques.. if the components are small, with just a few pin, balance them by hand with a drill bit 1mm.
if you have a lot of pins, and are very close together.. I place the component, soldering, hand one or two pins, just to hold it in place, and then step the dough balance (a soldering iron with micro-particles of tin suspended)... heating hot air.. and in a few seconds the component ? welded
according to me it is worth,before damaging important components,you should first do a little guinea pig!!
You do not really understand something until you can explain it to your grandmother (Einstein)
my mom what I needed.
but I would like some advice: to solder and desolder, for example, the resistance to boot....it is better to use soldering iron and solder paste,or pond normal?
then in a video I saw that before welding puts the flux and then the pasta why??to unsolder from the pitch, the resistance is always the flux?
of course I'm not talking about air welder but that's normal....
gracias.......
bought a atten hot air....now I just have to do a little practice.....
I would just like to take a doubt:but to solder with a temperature of 300?...do not risk damage to components near or in the same tab of bakelite?
never had problems, even in the 450?..
but it always depends on what you need to do and where..
place case you need to unsolder an e2prom and 300? we put 5 minutes, it's not better to heat it up to 450? in 10 seconds?
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