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Discussion: Printed circuit board

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  1. #1
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Also transparencies overlapping could be a problem, in fact, may not be perfectly transparent to ultraviolet rays. To this I said that ink ? important. If you have a friend typographer, and try to make you do a film from him. Be careful, even at low temperatures. The solution of soda should be around 20 degrees. Hold only until you see exit pi? black from the board. Sciacqualo well prior to immersion in the ferric chloride.

  2. #2
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    I don't remember well, I should go look in the attic. If memory serves me correctly, about 2 or 3 cm.

  3. #3
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Oct 2012
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    surely not ? the right forum to talk about these issues... however, if the printed circuit board(as I see) not ? complicated I suggest ,when you have printed on the copper plate ,use with a permanent marker there are also those on purpose, you'll see that even if the dip in the ferric chloride also pi? of the necessary to the slopes that you have designed, you will remain that way.....

  4. #4
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Citazione Originally Written by elettro72 Visualizza Messaggio
    surely not ? the right forum to talk about these issues... however, if the printed circuit board(as I see) not ? complicated I suggest ,when you have printed on the copper plate ,use with a permanent marker there are also those on purpose, you'll see that even if the dip in the ferric chloride also pi? of the necessary to the slopes that you have designed, you will remain that way.....
    this could be a nice idea...

    With regard to the bromografo, I wasn't sure, but I remembered that they had about 5-10cm away from the neon

  5. #5
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    hello then I'll explain as I do.....I got a printer that I print directly on the copper plate, I dry with a jet of hot air then review everything with a permanent marker and I have no problem.......if I don't come with the marker and put it directly in the chloride the risultao ? as your cio? corrode the slopes why? the ink the printer can't he hold in chloride...if the board is not ? very clean, (I since ? a copper plate normal) usually wipe it clean with a scouring pad that does not scrape off the copper ,and those for the dishes are great,the risks that the chloride can not have to eat the rame.........so if you use the bromografo that present little, you should review........if you present it so you have to try to wash the plate before putting it in the chloride

  6. #6
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Citazione Originally Written by elettro72 Visualizza Messaggio
    .........so if you use the bromografo that present little, you should review........if you present it so you have to try to wash the plate before putting it in the chloride
    wash with plain water? because if you continue with the soda, take away everything.

    how did you do that printer?

  7. #7
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    I do so. the mold l-I scheme on glossy paper , floor paper glossy printed on the board ( the ones with the black-colored film) of those aware of , I turn on the bromografo for 2 minutes , the development in the firm, then when you come off the slopes flush, and after a dip in the acid-ferric . just.

  8. #8
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Citazione Originally Written by jolidj Visualizza Messaggio
    I do so. the mold l-I scheme on glossy paper , floor paper glossy printed on the board ( the ones with the black-colored film) of those aware of , I turn on the bromografo for 2 minutes , the development in the firm, then when you come off the slopes flush, and after a dip in the acid-ferric . just.
    the same method I use, but as you can see the result ? bad.

  9. #9
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    You could try with the sheets peel&print. those who pass with the iron so to speak.

  10. #10
    THE AVERAGE USER
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    Apr 2013
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    According to me the block ? old, why? if you see the tracks right after they exit from the soda (and then wash it with water), then to 90% ? that. I use the whiskers of the Bungard and are excellent.

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