Printed circuit board

Maybe c'? a fan like me who is having fun with these things and can? give me an advice.

Do I have to print a circuit with the method of photo-engraving and can't get it to come out. Use the bromografo to impress the board. The circuit I printed it onto a sheet of glossy paper. After the bromografo to uv rays, wash the plate with the caustic soda and exits out of the circuit. After I put the plate in the ferric chloride and ? them that I can.

Or does not corrode, such as when I exposed too much, block uv rays, or corrode the slopes, as when exposed for a short time. The tests I have done all. Even with differences of + or - 30 sec exposure



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I know that you were wrong section....or even forum

I thought there was quanlcuno who loves to ste cosette... always electronics we speak

Could you better describe the process and what materials you use. I've done a few circuit, maybe I can help you.

1: block-type photosensitive
2: bromografo to uv rays
3: caustic soda ( dose used 10g per litre)
4: ferric chloride

Print the circuit on a sheet of glossy paper. Support the plate on the paper (being careful to) and expose to uv for 2 min. I also tried with 1min and 30 sec and 3 min but I have the worst results.
For the development I put the block in caustic soda, until you don't see the circuit (such as the development of the photo). Here well-known that the part is not impressed, and it should stay shiny and is slightly opaque. If you increase the time that remains in the caustic soda does not change too much,whereas if you increase the % assay of the soda in the water from 10mg / L to 15mg / L port via well as the part impressed, and the cio? the circuit.
Finally, I put the block in the ferric chloride. Using the exposure to the rays for 1min and 30 sec chloride. while if I expose the plate for 2 min I get the one in the photo. with the exposure time of 3 min chloride fails to corrode almost nothing.

What are you saying?

The proceedings ? right, that printer uses. Inkjet or laser?

The soda you have to prepare it at the time, and possibly with distilled water and a concentration of 8g per litre.

Inkjet printer. Unfortunately I do not have the laser.

In any case, I used distilled water, but I have prepared a litre and I have used it for all times.

I thought that the problem might be the distance from the neon being a bromografo craft (I used the carcass of an old scanner)

I at the time I scatterbrain much to get decent results. the bromografo that I used, it was well crafted, and like you I used a scanner.
For the printer I has provided an ink(pi? dense) my friend who is a printer and you say? the results are improved. However, a laser printer ? getting better and better.
Pu? be shiny in the printed part to let go a little light.

I understand what you say! I solved that problem sovrapponento perfectly 2 circuits printed on glossy.

What is the distance you had between the neon and glass. I remember that the school did exposure that ranged from 5 to 10 min, for? I don't remember well

I don't remember well, I should go look in the attic. If memory serves me correctly, about 2 or 3 cm.

Also transparencies overlapping could be a problem, in fact, may not be perfectly transparent to ultraviolet rays. To this I said that ink ? important. If you have a friend typographer, and try to make you do a film from him. Be careful, even at low temperatures. The solution of soda should be around 20 degrees. Hold only until you see exit pi? black from the board. Sciacqualo well prior to immersion in the ferric chloride.

surely not ? the right forum to talk about these issues... however, if the printed circuit board(as I see) not ? complicated I suggest ,when you have printed on the copper plate ,use with a permanent marker there are also those on purpose, you'll see that even if the dip in the ferric chloride also pi? of the necessary to the slopes that you have designed, you will remain that way.....

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Originally Written by elettro72

surely not ? the right forum to talk about these issues... however, if the printed circuit board(as I see) not ? complicated I suggest ,when you have printed on the copper plate ,use with a permanent marker there are also those on purpose, you'll see that even if the dip in the ferric chloride also pi? of the necessary to the slopes that you have designed, you will remain that way.....

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this could be a nice idea...

With regard to the bromografo, I wasn't sure, but I remembered that they had about 5-10cm away from the neon

hello then I'll explain as I do.....I got a printer that I print directly on the copper plate, I dry with a jet of hot air then review everything with a permanent marker and I have no problem.......if I don't come with the marker and put it directly in the chloride the risultao ? as your cio? corrode the slopes why? the ink the printer can't he hold in chloride...if the board is not ? very clean, (I since ? a copper plate normal) usually wipe it clean with a scouring pad that does not scrape off the copper ,and those for the dishes are great,the risks that the chloride can not have to eat the rame.........so if you use the bromografo that present little, you should review........if you present it so you have to try to wash the plate before putting it in the chloride

I do so. the mold l-I scheme on glossy paper , floor paper glossy printed on the board ( the ones with the black-colored film) of those aware of , I turn on the bromografo for 2 minutes , the development in the firm, then when you come off the slopes flush, and after a dip in the acid-ferric . just.

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Originally Written by jolidj

I do so. the mold l-I scheme on glossy paper , floor paper glossy printed on the board ( the ones with the black-colored film) of those aware of , I turn on the bromografo for 2 minutes , the development in the firm, then when you come off the slopes flush, and after a dip in the acid-ferric . just.

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the same method I use, but as you can see the result ? bad.

Quote:

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Originally Written by elettro72

.........so if you use the bromografo that present little, you should review........if you present it so you have to try to wash the plate before putting it in the chloride

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wash with plain water? because if you continue with the soda, take away everything.

how did you do that printer?

You could try with the sheets peel&print. those who pass with the iron so to speak.

According to me the block ? old, why? if you see the tracks right after they exit from the soda (and then wash it with water), then to 90% ? that. I use the whiskers of the Bungard and are excellent.