a little offtopic: be careful not to upset the admin... just a few words to the good connoisseurs.
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a little offtopic: be careful not to upset the admin... just a few words to the good connoisseurs.
You say?, in the jump to "serious"? then the one that we use pi?, in addition to the sponge (do not use) c'? a container with of the retina(it seems to me that both of brass), 2 dives in the in the retina and the tip ? perfectly clean.
you can find it everywhere, not to be advertising? you step link 2 link of a famous multinational company:
http://it.rs-online*****/web/p/access...ature/6699154/
http://it.rs-online*****/web/p/access...ature/4952775/
Nice set of tips. However, you have to have a good manualit?, otherwise they have wasted any type of soldering station. The GBC-I have never bought, but I think that this retina ? very common, in my welder ? included in the equipment.
I have this:
http://www.jbctools*****/cd-s-precisi...-1-menu-1.html
as the welder tip. Then the battle I have a few styles, but these I use them for things that are a little more? big where you need lots of Watts to work.
Ehehe, JBC to life! I used the one from a friend several times, this one to be precise : http://www.jbctools*****/ddst-rework-...-1-menu-1.html
I was stunned by the speed? with which raggiugne the T operating, and how to keep it constant-whatever you do. But we're talking about a station a thousand € I know.
Then must be understood, I have a chinese 100€ and I never had any problems, I go a little more? slowly but I do the same!
I paid 600 bucks, and also was granted.... Some took 2 tips, and as you say, the nice thing is that he takes temperatures immediately, the time to raise the stylus from the port and the stylus already? ? ready. With the tip the most? there balances the any and I think that the resistance works in pwm why? in the dispaly c'? the load index ? very low vacuum and just put the tip on a surface (for example pcb, wires, lugs, connectors..) this salt is up to you to keep the temperature constant. Considers that this is the taro of the standard to 330 degrees and I go to god, while with a station weller, I keep it fixed to 400gradi. When there are troubles in the pi? I have in mind to buy the caliper and if I can another station, but the 75 or 90W.
You don't need the eye if not the you have. Use your beautiful sponge, provided? do you remember inumidirla or, if you're very fast, get on a normal tissue and a colpettino you can give to clean up the tip.
Pu? be the pond that you're not using ? the top. Usually in both systems, I still glossy.Quote:
Originally Written by porter
Don't you dare to repeat "the chinese Pond" why? ? a horrible thing.
Like the pond at home I have the Philips, in the laboratory, I don't remember but ? very good. Then consider that I have of the pond in silver that I use for audio applications and, indeed, I had to buy specifically for a customer that broke and wanted to do welding on connectors all with this pond.
Which one? However, the GBC I think it has a philips or pond "Good". The pond is silver I got it on the baya + famous that c'?... XD
As said Fedex, avoid the chinese pond. Buy one tin of brand 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead), the Philips ? very good and is. the 60/40 ? the pi? easy-to-use, and come out the welds more? clean absolute. The alloy of tin and silver is not ? necessary, and ? pi? difficult to use with welders low cost.
To clean the tip on the damp sponge that's fine, go quiet.
Quoto in full. The one in silver I mentioned for informational purposes only, and I say, avr? a welding point is very high (temperature), and only with a welder that is capable of maintain the high temperature you can? use.Quote:
Originally Written by spatullo
As the thickness get the one that inspires you the most?, at the end if you have manualit? should be good for both those purposes and those less fine. Now here I have the label is ruined but should be 0.5 mm or 0.75 mm.
I use 1mm for the PCB through hole and 0.5 mm for SMD. No one forbids you to use 0.5 mm for all, or even 0.8 mm is joined to the same well.
I use 0.5 for all, and I am a fairy tale a bit of triellina and then pasta and the welds are a bomb
No, No. The solder paste leaves no residues and oxidizes the soldering, at least when it comes to small things. With the pond from 0.5 can you? use of liquid flux NO CLEAN, with the pond by 1mm you are not using anything why? the flux is gi? in the soul of the thread.
guys the pond 40/60 ? excellent flux in the cream , while to clean before the triellina but if the card c'? the resin you have to give even thinner, if not the triellina not take it away, and good scratch before the component to be removed and prepare the piazziola before you resolder all oviante if it comes to welding normal .
L important in the welding and the temperature of execution of both the materials to be welded, welding (cold) often leave involuntarily eye to the temperature of the soldering iron
trichloroethylene to clean...seen that ? all smd hot air and soldering iron of good quality? :-)
keep 60/40 let go of the pond eco-friendly serves no purpose...
You have the patience to use the pool and not the paste for smdQuote:
Originally Written by spatullo
in the end everyone has his ec method those who use the pasta and those who do not use those who use the alloy 40/60 who the eco-friendly, there is a "WAY" to settle....
What ? true, but the fact remains that with the pasta and the air you put in less than half? than we use with the welder. Unless you have to solder some resistance....Quote:
Originally Written by jovandj
Then I understood:
to remove the resin of the circuit - use diluent
to clean the impurities? by the circuits - the use of trichloroethylene
the use of the pond by 0.5 or 0.8 mm good quality?
use stylus quality?, better hot air
paste or solder flux, to improve the quality? welding, especially in the cases of smd where c'? the possibility? of short due to the minimum distance between the contacts
braiding of copper - use it in case of need? of having to subtract the pond in excess
Right?
Hello, I agree with you, but you must specify what we're talking about. The pastry used ALTERNATIVELY to the pond ? an account, in fact it is balls of tin mixed with a gel flux.Quote:
Originally Written by Roberto_Bmw
The vulgar "solder paste" instead, use many ? just a piece of junk, a kind of flux solid that generates corrosion etc. and ? was invented for welding of the copper pipes!!! A different story altogether.
I honestly do not balance for a long time, will be 4 to 5 years and for smd, I always have found on the baya pasta "chrome" that does not stick on the card, but you "absorb" on the legs. Very convenient and fastQuote:
Originally Written by spatullo
attentive to the dough many times it is as cold solder and problems ..eye to take that good quality!!Quote:
Originally Written by Roberto_Bmw
Sorry, there is a pasta in the particular specification for smd, why? I've always used flux, and tin, from 0.8, clearly pulento in advance with acetone or trichloroethylene.
in addition to the cleaning I use a good pool and if you facilitate on 80 % of the welds!!Quote:
Originally Written by fuorigiri12000
It is a kind of liquid phase and air heating becomes repellent to the card, and attaches only on the parties "clean".Quote:
Originally Written by fuorigiri12000
Thanks Roberto,Quote:
Originally Written by Roberto_Bmw
has a name in particular, or would you have a product to recommend.
Thanks
I have just bought a welder in the air and I bought a solder paste no-clean....I hope it's good....paid 30?....but I was expecting the grey and not yellow straw....
Guys good day....I am furious:yesterday as I wrote, I went to buy the solder paste to be used with the soldering station air....and that c..... the dealer at the end it has not given me the flux? and to say that I had stated that I called a solder paste ,but I meant the pond in the pasta......
from what I tried this morning, the flux is required if you want to make a work with the stylus, and tin wire in the welding of eprom pi? what else....while in the air I believe that the pond in the pasta alone is sufficient.....
what nerve....but it is possible that these who sell the electronic material do not understand us never a bat????for those who want to begin to do a little bit of experience ? very difficult....
Often it happens to me as well, to find myself in the same situation ? the problem remains the same.Quote:
Originally Written by ducati83
Very much depends on the composition of the pond and how it is a clean welding surface. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts, and dp having heated well in both the surfaces add the pond. A common mistake is to blow in the welding. Do not do this you will get a cold welding, less resistant because of the humidity and from thermal shock provocatogli!
clean with trichloroethylene
put a po pond on the pitches before us to rely on the component
center it by welding the two pins extreme
use flux very flux and tin ultra-thin type hair (is shops electronic)
solder heating up and dragging the pond on the pin, the flux does not stick to one another
the procedure goes well for pin distance 0.5 mm
to find an old electronic board type computer, etc and practice a bit
greetings
I for cleaning use solvent nitro
has it ever happened that some of the welds of the relais of the power units do not break up
how to do it?
I recommended a good welder hot air with a good quality