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View The Full Version : Alfa Mito - panels



SlimPickens
27-09-2014, 15:04
A few days ago I was hit while I was still a big hit. The rear of the car damaged, slightly bozzate also the sides because of the shock, especially the right. just to give you an idea, the spare wheel ? compressed in its seat, which has undulations. Now the car ? stop waiting for the expert. the engine will not start, ? took the block of the fuel, and is reported as a failure in the airbag, I know that the Myth is not an inertial true but it's all handled by the accelerometer drivers (or at least I think). I have no way to connect alcunch? to check for errors, it will be diff? everything from who will? to the repair. Of course, the real damage will be determined by disassembling the whole thing, I ask only if c'? anything in particular that you must verify in a case of this kind, or any account you can think of based on your experience. It really is a momentaccio, the important ? of course you feel good, but I would like to follow the repair in a conscious way and to be certain that the car come back as new in all of its aspects (mechanical and electronic).
Thanks to anyone who will take it? give me an advice or an opinion.

Zac
05-10-2014, 19:10
certain that so.... how do you say it ?? must be your panel beater/repairer to tell you if the machine can return or not as before, don't you think ?

sergiot
05-10-2014, 20:18
in the meantime, you can see to restore the operation of the engine by reactivating the inertial.
on the instructions booklet c'? indicated the recovery procedure that you can do simply without the need of tools.
Czech voice "system block fuel"

cronoprima
06-10-2014, 18:42
once a doctor said to me: we are like the body builders... one that breaks the bones will not return? never as a first. as the machines. pero I can tell you that the template does wonders. if you do not ? been heavily smashed the rear axle the template shows all axis ;-)

SlimPickens
10-10-2014, 20:26
Thanks to all for the answers. I know that my description meant everything and nothing, but discuss it with other fans of me definitely helps. With regard to the release, but we managed it after several attempts with the same procedure from the column switch. The strange thing ? that turning on the ignition the right arrow was inserted, but outside no bulb flashed (cos? as closing and opening the drive). Also the hazard button was not responding. By tapping the dimmer switch turning off when scrolling the indicator arrow, but then is there more? to the impulses later. Insisting with on and off picture at the end ? back to work everything properly, which has allowed the re-armament of the inertial with the above mentioned procedure. To mind the cold, we would have perhaps solved by disconnecting and hanging up the battery, I do not explain, however, what was born of this oddity. The shock has given I hit the dimmer switch.
Wizard, even if on a short ride, the car seems ok. The mass on the bridge convergence is the rear axle out of 2 mm beyond the tolerance, but I do not exclude that it could be cos? gi? in the source.
Remain damage fairly heavy body. Of the l? of the bumper and retrostrante crossbar destroyed, the area with the spare wheel must be cut and replaced, pi? perhaps other plates around (the car must still be removed). What is pi? worrying in my opinion ? the side and rear right. Perhaps the bumps that you ? created by deformation will come back? enough to place "pulling" on the template, otherwise, must? cut and resolder the side (coating), but ? one thing that scares me enough. I do not want an intervention cos? invasive, however well made, can take years to trigger the rust (sorry, there I struggled on my car previous to interventions well minor, and ? the worst enemy on a car).
This ? because, for now. you held? updated.

huntersub84
12-10-2014, 02:18
I speak to you from the car repair shop...

usually putting the car on the bench, and pulling in the correct way, the rear cover, the side back in his position. Now we have not seen the picture so I can know how much ? damaged, but usually I tend to repair the damage caused by ir? serious working of ir? sula sheet metal, and replacing the piece.
Also in case of replacement, there are usually no problems, the welds are made in the joints and not in the stagnant zones, however, there are treatments pre-welding and treatments of internal corrosion after replacement sheets, as well as? putty to apply. Moving on up the side of the original it still has the same "protection" corrosion of when ? was purchased new. If, then, instead of welding your car repair shop has a spot even better.

The fact is that as I understand it the bulk of the work ? the replacement of the spare-wheel well and the rear bumper, and all the rest ? the only result that should go without problems

SlimPickens
15-10-2014, 20:41
This ? an image of the external situation. At first sight can? seem not to have who knows? what, unfortunately, the real situation ? well the worst.



You notice the area below the crashed and the deformation on the right hand side (ce n'? a just visible on the left side). The tailgate ? it also deformed slightly in a point. Once you open it not ? pi? was possible to lock it in, and even why? now beating down on the frames of the headlights, which are both moved toward the center of the car. I don't have pictures of the inside, but the side load of the trunk ? substantially indented by about fifteen cm.