View The Full Version : tips on unsolder and solder
michele30
09-01-2014, 22:36
For desoldering, hot air a e2p or micro that is what would be the temperature to keep?
Welding, hot air or you can weld with soldering?
Which one ? instead, the temperature that must be taken to solder with soldering?
All of this station are welded
Thanks
Hello. to unsolder there are several methods.. explain them here would take a life.. I advise you to get a ride on youtube there are videos teaching you where to learn things that are more important..
the temperature also depends on what we're unsoldering or soldering, however, is around 250 ?
then as said it depends on what..and always with a soldering station.. where you can adjust the temperature to unsolder that for welding
cinqueturbo
09-01-2014, 23:15
Wonderful products that the usa!!!
Especially the gray paste...
I have taken a very similar.. works great! do not use more the pond.. :D
cinqueturbo
09-01-2014, 23:28
I have taken a very similar.. works great! do not use more the pond.. :D
Can you tell me how is it called? or as it is called technically?
Aoyue - solder paste - W001 this ? a.. then the case that you find it
http://www.youtube*****/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY
I have this product.. that is called easy print solder
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Solder-Paste-EASY-PRINT-Sn62Pb36Ag2-8g-syringe-/261051182786
cinqueturbo
09-01-2014, 23:57
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Solder-Paste-EASY-PRINT-Sn62Pb36Ag2-8g-syringe-/261051182786
Really Good!!...
I am amazed by the quality? and the simplicity? of the product..
you never stop learning...
michele30
10-01-2014, 07:34
I saw the video thanks, but I still have to clarify some things.
so with this dough, just put them on top and pass the hot air, right? or you can spend with the soldering?
that goes with the yellow tip , cos'? ?
it's good for soldering the temperature of 340 degrees with the soldering?
cinqueturbo
10-01-2014, 09:50
I saw the video thanks, but I still have to clarify some things.
so with this dough, just put them on top and pass the hot air, right? or you can spend with the soldering?
that goes with the yellow tip , cos'? ?
it's good for soldering the temperature of 340 degrees with the soldering?
Look, I don't think there is a precise rule, or fixed,
even why? the melting point of the pond it also depends on where the hotel is located and the size of the component,
s? and a micro you take a moment to 350? but s? and a A29F you put in 30-40 seconds s? not even more?..
it is exactly... as I said before.. it always depends on what you need to unsolder or weld.. I would do a little bit of experience on some of the electronic card is old.. make a bit of practice
cinqueturbo
10-01-2014, 10:26
it is exactly... as I said before.. it always depends on what you need to unsolder or weld.. I would do a little bit of experience on some of the electronic card is old.. make a bit of practice
Quoto.. I also to test the soldering station dissaldante or are familiar with the old Stereo-DVD-cable TV ;)
michele30
10-01-2014, 13:28
thanks raga.
To unsolder not ? a problem, I have already done tests in the desoldering hot air ? fast, I just wanted to see if there was a rule for the temperature to be set, I do 300 , but I can also increase to 350, if you tell me so.
The problem ? welding
once unsoldered , the pitch where es there goes the e2p 8-pin , to resolder what are the steps to do this?
wipe the pitch with the soldering tool or do I need to type the flux and then move on with the soldering?
the solder paste that uses you Audi sp how to use it?
as in the video? supports the micro or e2p that is, the top put this paste on the steps with the soldering tool from side to side, right?
once you are finished with what to clean?
on this, I can give a bit of contributions having gained a bit of experience in the assembly of electronic cards
.. the temperature depends on the component.. even the manufacturers of integrated smd, often in the attached datasheet is the curve of the optimum welding to use.
in general, if there are components that are particularly sensitive, for desoldering, I use hot air station, with air at about 300 ?C / 320.
as a first step, the flux, an abundant, then warm it with hot air, and as soon as the pond ? time (matter of seconds) the remove.
the area, wipe it clean with a copper braid, and a normal soldering iron stylus.
finally, for the cleaning of the residues of the flux, use an alcohol.. I don't remember exactly the name of the product.
for soldering of smd components, using two techniques.. if the components are small, with just a few pin, balance them by hand with a drill bit 1mm.
if you have a lot of pins, and are very close together.. I place the component, soldering, hand one or two pins, just to hold it in place, and then step the dough balance (a soldering iron with micro-particles of tin suspended)... heating hot air.. and in a few seconds the component ? welded
motorsport
11-01-2014, 20:56
it is exactly... as I said before.. it always depends on what you need to unsolder or weld.. I would do a little bit of experience on some of the electronic card is old.. make a bit of practice
according to me it is worth,before damaging important components,you should first do a little guinea pig!! :)
ducati83
13-01-2014, 15:57
my mom what I needed.
but I would like some advice: to solder and desolder, for example, the resistance to boot....it is better to use soldering iron and solder paste,or pond normal?
then in a video I saw that before welding puts the flux and then the pasta why??to unsolder from the pitch, the resistance is always the flux?
of course I'm not talking about air welder but that's normal....
gracias.......
ducati83
15-01-2014, 19:02
bought a atten hot air....now I just have to do a little practice.....
I would just like to take a doubt:but to solder with a temperature of 300?...do not risk damage to components near or in the same tab of bakelite?
cinqueturbo
15-01-2014, 19:11
never had problems, even in the 450?..
but it always depends on what you need to do and where..
place case you need to unsolder an e2prom and 300? we put 5 minutes, it's not better to heat it up to 450? in 10 seconds?
guidotacco
15-01-2014, 19:20
on this, I can give a bit of contributions having gained a bit of experience in the assembly of electronic cards
.. the temperature depends on the component.. even the manufacturers of integrated smd, often in the attached datasheet is the curve of the optimum welding to use.
in general, if there are components that are particularly sensitive, for desoldering, I use hot air station, with air at about 300 ?C / 320.
as a first step, the flux, an abundant, then warm it with hot air, and as soon as the pond ? time (matter of seconds) the remove.
the area, wipe it clean with a copper braid, and a normal soldering iron stylus.
finally, for the cleaning of the residues of the flux, use an alcohol.. I don't remember exactly the name of the product.
for soldering of smd components, using two techniques.. if the components are small, with just a few pin, balance them by hand with a drill bit 1mm.
if you have a lot of pins, and are very close together.. I place the component, soldering, hand one or two pins, just to hold it in place, and then step the dough balance (a soldering iron with micro-particles of tin suspended)... heating hot air.. and in a few seconds the component ? welded
may I know what kind of balance ??
thanks
ducati83
15-01-2014, 19:22
ok you're right....
they are only doubts that I have why? I would like to begin to do a bit of practice is to solder and desolder the eeprom is the resistance in the boot.....I would like to learn to do a bit of everything....
my mom what I needed.
but I would like some advice: to solder and desolder, for example, the resistance to boot....it is better to use soldering iron and solder paste,or pond normal?
then in a video I saw that before welding puts the flux and then the pasta why??to unsolder from the pitch, the resistance is always the flux?
of course I'm not talking about air welder but that's normal....
gracias.......
if it is just a resistor, I usually cos?:
with soldering iron with fine tip, I put a very small amount? of the pond on the pitch. then we support above the SMD resistor, holding her crushed to the pcb with a pair of tweezers. at that point, heating the end? with the welder, so that the resistance remains fixed.
at this point, the balance safely the other end?, taking care to be fast, not to riscardare too much resistance and melt even the pond from the other party (in these cases ? convenient to keep the temperature a little bit more? low if you do not have much in the hand)
if necessary, review with a little bit of the pond, the first point
may I know what kind of balance ??
thanks
you can post links on the forum? cos? I'll give you some reference of the products
the right to information on brands to look for.. here on hand in the lab, I have the "solderplus" that ? in the syringe, so good for small jobs.. and then I have a "mechanics solder paste" in the jar (here you need the stencil.. we use it for the reballing of the bga, but I'll take care of this)
ducati83
19-01-2014, 12:01
ok thank you....for? I still don't know what the flux.....I see that you use with the stylus, especially....but then it still leaves a sticky residue....trichloroethylene causes damage if the past with a brush?
then I have lost faith:having flux and tin the wire I tried to make my first welding station, on the air.....what do you think?
sure it takes a steady hand and a great view...but it seems to me very simple....
cinqueturbo
19-01-2014, 15:24
then I have lost faith:having flux and tin the wire I tried to make my first welding station, on the air.....what do you think?
sure it takes a steady hand and a great view...but it seems to me very simple....
I just don't like..
that work should be done with a welder normal, and tin, 0.5 mm, and just wanting to do a job, glossy, solder paste normal..
to unsolder welder normal and a good sucking pond..
what you and served hot air station?
ok thank you....for? I still don't know what the flux.....I see that you use with the stylus, especially....but then it still leaves a sticky residue....trichloroethylene causes damage if the past with a brush?
the flux serves to thin the pond... and it also lowers the melting point.
when you weld rod is not used, why? almost all of the alloys of tin, gi? inside.. but in the process of welding evaporates.. so to unsolder ? need to add more.
if, instead, balances, hot air, is also used in solder, why? prevents you from joining pin close.
important thing ? pay attention to the steam that generates the flux.. they are dangerous. I always work under a fume hood
ducati83
20-01-2014, 15:56
ok thank you you have been a pi? good cinqueturbo(joke)....
oh god, I have tried both with the stylus and with the hot air and the second I found it much more? simple....sar? the little experience....
for? I have to ask you one thing:on some of the schedule I saw that I couldn't solder...tin is not attacked...for example, the schedule bdm have been very difficult to weld with the tips in the spring the pond is not attacked on the holes in the metal, but only on the tip of the test leads as ever?
then I used the soldering iron and I have welded with the wire of the pond....but the sticky residue of the flux how do I remove?
ok thank you you have been a pi? good cinqueturbo(joke)....
oh god, I have tried both with the stylus and with the hot air and the second I found it much more? simple....sar? the little experience....
for? I have to ask you one thing:on some of the schedule I saw that I couldn't solder...tin is not attacked...for example, the schedule bdm have been very difficult to weld with the tips in the spring the pond is not attacked on the holes in the metal, but only on the tip of the test leads as ever?
then I used the soldering iron and I have welded with the wire of the pond....but the sticky residue of the flux how do I remove?
if the pitch you need to find sifficolt? weld-on ? pure copper, might be a bit of oxide... or sometimes, it could be a little bit of paint ptrottetiva...
or abradi a little, very lightly to the surface, or insist a little more? with the welder... in this case, a bit of flux helps.
for the removal of the resin that leaves the flux, you can use specific products "flux remover" and you find it.. otherwise, a little alcohol.. but you have to insist on more?
ducati83
20-01-2014, 19:35
ok.
then nothing trichloroethylene as I read around the internet....
for? I have to tell you that I tried to scrape slightly the part that I couldn't weld but nada....I had to heat the pond and quickly with a pair of tweezers to pull the ferrule to join the pond between the hole and the ferrule carrying the same to the equal of the e xxx....I don't know if I explained it
ok.
then nothing trichloroethylene as I read around the internet....
for? I have to tell you that I tried to scrape slightly the part that I couldn't weld but nada....I had to heat the pond and quickly with a pair of tweezers to pull the ferrule to join the pond between the hole and the ferrule carrying the same to the equal of the e xxx....I don't know if I explained it
mmm I understand.. have you tried to stagnate before the point? and then solder
ducati83
20-01-2014, 21:33
it is, in fact, I had tried cos? , taking my place on the ferrule of the staganvo and when I went to ****llo of the hole and then melt the tin to make it weld to the hole but nada....I attacked....even if the e xxx bdm of the cock as you saw in the photos I have found difficulty? of this kind, even if the result is not ? was excellent...but I have reached the goal....
ducati83
23-01-2014, 12:18
Guys I would like information such as names and what should I ask in an electronics shop to have the strips that are welded to the bdm? I have a edc16 to be evidence of welding....
thanks
fuorigiri12000
23-01-2014, 15:04
Guys I would like information such as names and what should I ask in an electronics shop to have the strips that are welded to the bdm? I have a edc16 to be evidence of welding....
thanks
Strip 2,54mm
michele30
16-02-2014, 11:26
Yep, still not happy with my solder . The first when I use solder paste and with the stagnantore balance join me for the Pin, the dough is placed on the eprom on the card, let's say just where it ends in the Eprom?
Can I use the pasta welded and dissolve it in hot air? Or risk getting to merge the Pin
the last thing the temperature to use the stagnantore which should it be? Why? I do not melts the pond, I just got it I do not understand.
ducati83
17-02-2014, 15:16
watch I am also a novice....then I flux I have no problems if I use the hot air....but with the style, sincerely, I have not seen the usefulness? of this product due to my lack of experience....even if the net I've seen many videos where is applied the flux, then put the eeprom and with the stylus and the tin wire to do a direct solder in the sequence, all the pins....so what you said can you? do with hot air station...everything ? understand how to ..or better have the right maestranza...
Mr.Flash
17-02-2014, 17:48
Guys I would like information such as names and what should I ask in an electronics shop to have the strips that are welded to the bdm? I have a edc16 to be evidence of welding....
thanks
are also called connectors, tulip-shaped , for the bosch edc16 step ? 2.54 mm as it says overspeed !
Yep, still not happy with my solder . The first when I use solder paste and with the stagnantore balance join me for the Pin, the dough is placed on the eprom on the card, let's say just where it ends in the Eprom?
Can I use the pasta welded and dissolve it in hot air? Or risk getting to merge the Pin
the last thing the temperature to use the stagnantore which should it be? Why? I do not melts the pond, I just got it I do not understand.
michele30
18-02-2014, 13:31
Once unsoldered hot air, the pitches must be removed from the pond? or is it enough to give a small smoothed with canvas brasiva?
how to weld hot air without solder paste? untie the pond..
Mr.Flash
18-02-2014, 14:39
you from the pitches remove the pond in excess , then make a pass with the flux for a uniform and disossidare all.
the abrasive cloth of the leave at the hardware store... I've never used it.
exact station, smd, you can dissolve the pond, the flux that ? on the plate I to do? the rest of it.
michele30
18-02-2014, 21:26
so if I understood well the pond is enough already that c'? in pizzola after I unsoldered, not I have to put even when the balance with the air.
sorry, but I'm doing several tests and I would like to make good welds.
Mr.Flash
19-02-2014, 10:38
if the pitches are tinned and disossidate , not to serve? add another then clearly depends on what we're talking about plcc , psop , soic , dil........... each has its own needs
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